Installing new/old GE Profile stove top - 6 wires?!

[sheepdawg]

HELP!

please.

I just purchased an old GE Profile stove top (unused, but discontinued) from a Kitchen & Bathroom place (cleaning house). If anyone cares, it's model# J66RP1BG. They didn't have the manual(s) for it - go figure - and GE doesn't have them online. Now I can't figure out how the wiring goes because there are 2 wires that I don't know what to do with. Internet searches have come up empty too.

Coming out of the wall I have the ground, red, black, and white which is to be expected.

The old cook top went into a fuse box under the counter, but I think it was wired wrong because not all the burners worked, and I would like to do this right. The former owners of this house weren't too bright from what I've found.

Coming out of my "new" cook top are 6 wires: white, red, black, orange, and yellow, plus ground. Can anyone out there tell me:

1. what connects to what?
2. how should the fuses or breakers (preferred, I know) be hooked up?

I figured that each of the red, white, black, and grounds would line up (although I don't know if there should be fuses between any of them), but then what do I do with the orange and yellow?

Thank you for any and all assistance you can offer.

Tyler McEwan.

[mm]

Edwin's answer is good, but I'm pretty conservative. I would use an ohmmeter before hooking anything up to see which wires are connected to which. Part of a multimeter. You definitely should have one, and they start at 10 or 20 dollars, which is good enough. Most sold now are digital with auto-polarity, so with direct current, you don't have to connect the leads right. Of course this will be Alternating Current. They all have a range greater than 220, but check. And with

220, don't touch the metal part of live wires. They can kill you a lot faster than 110.

I know barely anything about stoves, per se, except to ask, does this one have a clock? Possibly theorange and yellow are for the clock?? Or maybe not. My stove doesn't work that way. It's a 220 volt stove, of course, and it uses one of the hot leads and the ground to get approximately 110 which it uses to run the clock. It works fine that way, but maybe others do it differently.

Try following the wires to see where they go. Take the back off the rear part to see, if the knobs or clock is back there. You can see what color wires go to the clock or any other gizmo this stove has. If they aren't orange and yellow, forget what I said above.

Make a drawing or chart of all this. After you measure everything and note everything you can see, then you can sit down and figure it out. If you can't figure it out completely, then follow Edwin's advice.

And lift the range top to look at more wires. I find it hard to believe that the previous owners rewired the stove so that all burners didn't work. It seems more likely that the receptablces fo those burners lost thier springineess and didn't make contact with the the plug each burner has. Mine was tempermental for years, and I finally had the time to get a new receptacle (connector). That's why they sell them, because they wear out. I haven't had this happen; but I'm sure burners can burn out also.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

From what I can see, those wires don't exist. Could they be for an accessory like a downdraft blower? Barring exact information, I'd hook it up as you indicate, then put a meter on the orange and yellow and see if they are getting power. Check to see if they get power during certain operations, lights, etc. Check with a local GE dealer and see if you can buy a manual.

[Appliance Repair Aid]

Hi,

Is the wire diagram that comes with the unit still there? If yes, that will show where the wires go to. Extra wires often powered the lights ( hot surface, ect ) on the cooktop. Is the breaker box with the unit? Install manual says "call to order" on the GE web site.

800-626-2002 from 8 a.m. - 8 p.m. EST Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. EST Saturday, and 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. EST Sunday

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[Nuked Worker]

I greatly appreciate all the help everyone is offering. Hopefully with some greater minds than mine, I can get this resolved. Here's a couple of issues I've run into so far: GE answer centre has no recognition of the model number when I tried to order a replacement manual; hooking up the R,W,B,g as one would expect gives odd results.

As for problem 1, I'll just have to work around it. The closest I've been able to come in doing a search on the net results in:

(parts catalogue with an image) which would be great, except they don't have a manual either. The image on the page might be helpful to someone with more experience than myself in figuring it out. I would hate to have to pull this thing apart (as suggested), but will resort to whatever is necessary in the end. While it is old, it is an unused cook top in excellent condition - the wall oven is my next job, but at least it has regular leads.

Weird results from hooking up red, white, black, and ground to corresponding leads:

- "Surface Hot" light is always on - the thing didn't have power all night so it is cold.

- both right burners work, left ones don't

- "unit on" light only comes on with front right or rear left burners selected on.

- there is always voltage coming from the yellow (disconnected wire at this point) to ground

- voltage shows up on the orage lead when either of the left (non-operational) burners are selected on

I'm going to contact the people (friends) at the kitchen place again today to see if they can offer any assistance, maybe ask one of their installers or something. Otherwise, please keep the ideas coming. I was really hoping to serve Buffalo steaks to the in-laws this weekend (they would be done on the bbq of course, but I need to cook top for the trimmings). Oh, and just in case you are wondering, during my testing, at one point or another I have seen each burner work properly with the surface hot and unit on lights - just never all 4 at the same time. I have also tried looking at the manuals for the newer models, but they only have the expected R,B,W,g leads.

Thanks again,

Tyler.

[Abe]

Find a manual for a current model that has the same configuration.

[Nuked Worker]

SUCCESS!!

Ok, yes, now I feel a little stupid. To my chagrin, I opened the cook top up. I was nervous about losing parts or whatever, not having worked with a stovetop before (and yet, I'll pulled apart VCRs, and TVs before, go figure). Low and behold, inside were the wiring schematics. Sorry I didn't listen sooner guys. If anyone is wondering, here's how it goes:

ground -> ground white -> white black -> 20A fuse -> black black -> 20A fuse -> yellow red -> 20A fuse -> red red -> 20A fuse -> orange

Thanks for your patience and your guidance. Now excuse me while I go bash my head against a wall.

Tyler.

[Nuked Worker]

ARGH!

Almost perfect. The oly problem I have now is that the "Surface Hot" light won't go out. Everything else works perfectly. I guess you can't have it all. Unless anyone has any suggestions, I may just have to open the top up again and see if it was my fault, or disconnect that circuit. Except that it did work before (even though everything was hooked up wrong). I figure I may have bumped something when I opened it up. Any other ideas or suggestions?

Thanks,

Tyler.

[Amun]

It's almost a given nowadays to have a schematic stuck on every appliance somewhere. Open a few access panels and you may find one.

You will then know what them funny colored wires are for.

But as others have already told you trace them through to see what they are hooked up to, and just use some common sense.

AMUN

[Abe]

I think you want to go to this GE Web page to get help by phone or email for discontinued products:

[Abe]

The surface indicator lights to say ON on my glass ceramic cooktop.

The surface temperature limiters are what monitor the surface temperature and will shut off the surface indicator lights when the surface temperature drops below 150 degrees.

So, are you waiting long enough for the surface to cool down?

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Easy to fix. Remove the bulb!

[Terry]

FWI That model is listed, with only a diagram of the mechanical parts at <

>. That diagram shows a circuit breaker unit; which I suggest may normally be part of the cooktop? Maybe that&#39;s where those other wires &#39;normally&#39; terminate? is the unit perhaps missing that item? That doesn&#39;t mean, in my opinion, that it cannot be installed and work properly and safely, but proper analysis and correct electrical installation to code would need to be made to the, ground, white, red and black supply from the circuit breaker/fuse panel.