Icemaker

I have an icemaker in my Roper refrigerator's freezer that will not stop water flow either when the tray fills or the bail is raised. I need a few hints as to where I should look for problems. Is there a water level sensor in the machine or is a timer used for water shutoff. The unit also has a cube-size control if that matters.
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This is Turtle.
if the fingers of the ice maker are down in the bowl and will not come out or move. Also the water will keep running more than 30 seconds and no movement of the fingers. You have a stuck ice maker. Buy a new ice maker and not the repair kits.
If it is just over filling the bowl by a little bit. There is a adjustment on it to shorted the time the water valve stays open when filling the water to the bowl. Most ice makers have 6 to 9 seconds fill time and the adjustment you have just shortens it or makes it longer to put more water in it.
A better description would be nice.
TURTLE
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The water runs until I shut off the supply. The fingers of the rake are in the normal parked position. The machine will not shut off the water.
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The water tubing is opened by means of a solenoid valve. Chances are, it is the culprit. It is an electromagnetic thing and may have a broken spring or dead magnet.
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wrote in message

That was my first guess, but I haven't had time yet to see if it's stuck or has an open coil winding, although I would guess that if it's an open coil the valve would be closed.
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wrote:

That's true it could be, but they usually fail closed where they will not let any water in. Way to check is to attach a voltmeter to the solenoid terminals and check the voltage as the unit goes through a fill cycle. It the voltage comes up and then does not drop off after the appropriate time, the solenoid valve is doing what it is told to do, that is, stay open.
Do a search for Ice maker repair and browse around. you will find some very good diagnostic tools to determine whether it is your solonoid valve or your timer/motor. Both are easily replaced.
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If electricity opens it, what closes it? If a spring, the spring can be broken.
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If the water continues to come through the valve when there is no power to it, the valve is bad. It is probably not the spring, but the valve seat. Just replace the valve-- they are not very expensive. Larry
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wrote:

You're right. In my experience, however, and it is quite limited, the coil fails first. I've replaced several that would not open, none that would not close. doesn't mean that it can't happen. Kind of like thermostats on cars, they can and will fail both ways.
By checking the voltage you can be sure that the timer/motor is telling it to open and close properly, and eliminate all but the solenoid as the problem.
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