Humidifier Question

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I wonder why you wrote that. Another option is air sealing to raise the RH. BTW, we've only discussed the outdoor dewpoint (vs. dry bulb) temperature.

Air sealing is good in any case. "Make it tight, and vent it right."
Nick
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On 18 Nov 2004 09:17:10 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Hence calling it a rough rule of thumb.

To a point.
Our energy-is-all-that-matters geniuses have given us lots of unintended consequences, such as sick buildings and enormous mold problems (which they are trying to blame on contractors). What next? As far as I am concerned, they are fast losing their credibility.
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software http://www.techmethod.com
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On 18 Nov 2004 09:17:10 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

My wife would agree. ;->
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 02:09:33 -0800, ~^Johnny^~

How do you vent it?
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wrote:

Her lips are sealed...
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On 17 Nov 2004 11:10:51 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Given an outdoor dewpoint of 0F, 160 CFM of fresh air, an indoor temp of 70F, our family of four putting out 2 gallons per day of moisture, and no humidifier, what would be the resulting indoor humidity?
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software http://www.techmethod.com
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Why don't you tell us, Mr. Tech-Method?
Nick
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On 25 Nov 2004 08:19:42 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Why do you keep bringing up TECH Method? My books are not about system design nor sizing nor installation. That's why it says "Troubleshooting" in my sig line.
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software http://www.techmethod.com
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wrote:

Gary, this idiot has no clue what hes talking about. The fact that he knows nothing about you says all...hes claiming to be some expert in a field that would encompass being familiar with those like you that know more about the workings of a system than most, yet he cant grasp that you do not design, nor install systems. If he was smart, he would be looking at ways to insure that the IAQ was that of a healthy level, and if energy savings is his goal, he would know more about geo systems, or even passive systems. There are several builders here that we work with that build a tight home..one that far and away exceeds that of 99% of those out there..however, ERVs, HRVs and other methods are used to insure that the occupants are comfortable and healthy...and extremely low energy comsumption is the result. Personally, I will stick with my heat pump, with humidifier, HRV, and UV bank. My wife from the desert of Southern CA agrees with me..and if we build a new home as we plan, its going to be what we want...not what some wannabe self proclaimed expert thinks we want...and I willl guarantee that on 5000+SF, the utilities would be amazingly low....and I wont care what "they could be".
Hell...he can slap a swamp cooler on the roof, sealthe place up and reach 100%RH in about 30 minutes...LOL
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[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth] On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 13:28:30 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@gatecom.com (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Gary, certainly you recognize this as a troll. Too much intentionally missing data.
gerry
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote: n 160x0.075(wi-wo) < 0.0116, ie wo < wi - 0.000966 = 0.005319 and Po

Come on Nicky. Quit evading. You always want to post numbers. Answer the question. Or admit you're a clueless fuckwit.
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On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 12:44:52 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@gatecom.com (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

What does the humidity meter read?
:-P

Sorry, I've come to depend more on instruments than math, math errors are too common.
later,
tom @ www.FindMeShelter.com
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[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth] On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 10:31:38 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@intertainia.com wrote:

Math is always accurate IF all parameters are considered correctly. But garbage, garbage out. In many cases, "garbage" is the absence of all parameters correctly interpreted.
One certain "trash detector" is when someone starts doing calculations like the above with 6 significant digits!!! Any decent engineer is rolling on the floor laughing when they see such.
gerry
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wrote:

For my engineering degree, I was taught to use atleast 5 in all calculations and show atleast three in any answer.
6 too much? or not enough for you?
Just currious,
tom @ www.BookmarkAdmin.com
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[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth] On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 15:54:45 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@intertainia.com wrote:

Showing more "significant" digits that are "significant" (excepting one extra during calculations to handle round off build up) suggests there is far more accuracy than exists. In many cases like this, your lucky if the first digit is accurate for some parameters.
RPI would flunk an answer with garbage extra significant digits. In the above example, temperature and RH are only given as two significant digits, (2nd digit suspect!). Using more than 3 for calculations and reporting results more accurate then 2 digits (the number in the temp and RH) is meaningless garbage).
Now, BASIC programmers, not in touch with the real world, often use BASIC's default of 10 or so digits. A waste if paper, ink, screen space...
To answer your question, given the input has parameters with only two significant digits, reporting results with more than two is deceptive.
Interesting, the first scientific hand held calculator (HP 35) had no ability to control the number of displayed digits. HP fixed this with the next generation so one properly viewed data to the specified number of digits.
gerry
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Bullshit.
-- -john wide-open at throttle dot info
~~~~~~~~ The time to repair the roof is when the sun is shining - JFK ~~~~~~~~
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wrote:

Precise math, given imprecise factors, yields an imprecise result. For example, does anyone really believe every family of four under all conditions generates exactly 2 gallons of moisture per day? Can we compensate for the variations by calculating with more significant digits?
Get real, folks. Its a ballpark guesstimate no matter how precise the math.
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software http://www.techmethod.com
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[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth] On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 05:17:13 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@gatecom.com (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

"Precisely" my point ;-) I'm sure a 2 yr old emits the same moisture to the air as a 250lb man working NOT. That makes the 1st significant digit suspect!
What if one has an aquarium, likes plants or takes long baths? How about someone who likes to cook a lot? The numbers are not even in a "ballpark", rather one could guesstimate upper and lower bounds which probably are grossly different.
gerry
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Is that the famous "Index finger hypothesis?"
...sorry, I couldn't resist
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I just purchased a Honeywell 260A (?) which comes with a sail switch and 30 VA transformer. I didn't want the hassle of cutting another hole in the cold air return for the sail switch and running a 120VAC circuit to the furnace for the transformer. However, I also didn't want to blow the transformer on the furnace (Lennox G12, circa 1990).
I finally got through to a tech person at an HVAC dealership and he told me that the transformers on furnaces are usually 40 VA, which is more than the one that comes with the Honeywell.
Make sure you take a voltmeter and check which low-voltage terminals supply 24VAC when the blower is running.
Of course, the humidifier would also run in the summer with this configuration, but as long as you're using a humidistat set to 40% or less, the relay will be open and prevent the humidifier from operating.
Zypher wrote:

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