On 12/14/2013 8:55 AM, email@example.com wrote:
The contractor grade HVAC systems are made as cheaply as possible and
often lack all the bells and whistles of the more expensive units. I've
added anti short cycle timers, surge arresters, low pressure switches
and high pressure manual reset switches. The low pressure switch cuts
the control circuit power if the freon leaks out to protect the
compressor and the high pressure switch cuts control voltage if the high
side pressure goes too high like when the condenser fan fails or if the
condenser coil becomes obstructed because it's clogged with dirt, animal
hair or trash that gets sucked up against it. The expensive units
usually have everything except the surge arresters which I add to the AC
systems in rural areas because they are more likely to get power surges.
The AC system compressors have an internal automatic overload which pops
if the the compressor gets too hot or draws too much current because of
a locked rotor due to high pressure from the compressor being stopped or
slammed on and off by power blinks or someone playing with the
thermostat. With the anti short cycle timer, the system won't cut on and
off with power blinks or thermostat fiddling because every time the
control voltages goes off, the timer keeps the contactor from pulling in
until 3 to 5 minutes pass. I use the adjustable timers but potted preset
timer modules are also available with a 5 minute delay. On all of the
commercial AC condensers, I will also add a fan cycle control because
the AC systems are often run in the middle of winter. When the high side
pressure drops too low, the system will not operate properly because
there is no proper pressure differential. The fan control will not turn
on the condenser fan until the high side comes up to a proper pressure.
You will see the condenser fan turn on and off as the high side pressure
goes up and down. In very cold weather and a slight breeze, the
compressor is happy without the condenser fan ever coming on. ^_^
On 12/13/2013 11:12 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
You could install a thermostat inside the return air duct but
Best advice I've heard in years. I remember Earl Proulx
(the Yankee Handyman) did that. I read in his book, a
couple decades ago. I've long since misplaced the book.
He put the working Tstat behind the sofa on the baseboard.
When my sister and her boyfriend lived in a house, we
discussed run a second Tstat wire. The guy next door had
the stat, and he'd turn it way down before going to work.
They asked him many times not to do that, but to no avail.
When I first got out of college we sublet the bottom floor of an old
house from the people living upstairs. They were paying the heat
bills but the t'stat was downstairs in our apartment. They didn't
like the heating bills but it was on *old* house.
You guys have always come through for me, whenever I was in a puddle.
Just to be clear, the door itself didn't solve the problem because
the blower was running constantly. But when I reassembled the
thermostat, the blower stopped; but the furnace wouldn't go on.
After tapping everything, and blowing it all out with compressed
air, the blower went on, but only for a very short time.
And, after disassembling all wires (one at a time), cleaning
each of them, and tapping on all relays & switches, the blower
started working like it should.
So, it wasn't *just* the blower door (although, I do agree, that
was a "duh" moment for me when I saw that!).
I just wrote an entire review for free Android offline GPS mapping
applications in comp.mobile.android. I tested about two dozen,
and chose the best two or three for vehicle and hiking navigation
without a data plan (or when you're out of the service area).
I'm currently spec'ing out a WiFi extension that will cover the
entire house with an entire Watt (the legal limit in the USA) EIRP.
That's over in alt.internet.wireless
We had a loooong discussion on how to get Android to tell the truth
about system memory in alt.cellular.t-mobile
I would wager that all of the knocking and stuff was not necessary.
T-stat, reset all limits, and replace access cover. You really do
need to ask "first". :-)
Though, doing a once over every year is a good thing. Now, you have
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 00:16:04 -0600, Irreverent Maximus wrote:
Well, I *did* ask, once I saw what the thermostat looked like unscrewed!
I think, for me, this was the biggest bonus.
For you guys, somehow, inherently, you knew the red goes to the white,
but, to me, I didn't know that.
Also, I didn't know about the limit switch, fuse, countdown timer, etc.,
and I didn't realize there was even a 120V plug in the wall for the heater.
Plus, I didn't really know how the thermostat worked (we almost never need
heat or A/C where I live anyway).
So, for me, it was a tremendous learning experience. Now, when I look
at the heater with the doors off, all the parts at least make sense.
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 17:17:40 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:
Understood. The problem is the size of the darn thing has to be just about
right in order to fit above the oven. Sigh. And black too.
BTW, I *am* dealing with microwaves in a different way, as today I was trying
to get my rooftop antenna to connect to a Starbucks twenty miles away.
I failed, but here's my signal strength to a nearby antenna only 3 miles away:
PS: I'm a frustrated latent wannabe war driver! :)
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