On 30/01/2015 16:05, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Consider it uses 220V here, maybe 32 A is equivalent to 64A in the US.
I have 30 lights each rated at 85 w. That is 2550 W. I have a 2000 w
saw. I have three air coolers, each 250 w. I have two computers and two
laptops. I have two water dispensers. That's it for now. And most of the
time, no more than 5 lights are on. The total wattage should be less
than 7,000 W if everything is on.
Power company installs a meter in the landlord's office. The landlord
installed a submeter in the building I rent so he knows how much
electricity we use and charges us accordingly. At that time, I had a
choice of installing a single phase meter of 10,000 W, the maximum
capacity, or a 3 phase meter which has higher capacity. Since the
service is single phase, it doesn't make sense to install a 3 phase
meter and according to my calculation, I'll use no more than 7000 W. A
meter of 10,000 W is enough. That's why I went for a single phase meter.
but I'll have to wait till after work so not to interrupt other people's
On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 11:38:28 PM UTC-5, yyy378 wrote:
(There is a total of 4 wires, two for hot, two for
4 mm2 is between 11 and 12 gauge. 12g would be rated for 20A.
They have them doubled up, so there's your 40A capacity and
the breaker is only 32A. In the US, you
wouldn't be allowed to use doubled conductors like that. But
from the physics, it's capable of carrying the current, within
the breaker protection limit, etc. Assuming it's normal copper
wire that is. If it's some cheap crap from God knows where,
then who knows what it's resistance is. The fact that the switch is
hot suggests something is wrong with it, possibly it's going bad.
That could certainly cause your measured 5V drop. Try measuring
the voltage drop across the switch.
Hard to tell the size of the main breaker. The amp of breakers in the US
are clearly marked. On the switch it tells you 15A, 20A, etc. Here, I
can't find such thing. When compare different breakers, I see C10, C16,
C20, C32. I guess these numbers have to be amperage rating. If that's
the case, the main breaker is 32 amp.
Maybe someone else on here knows more about foreign breaker ratings, but
it sounds like you're probably correct.
C10 = 10 (US)
C16 = 15
C20 = 20
C32 = 30
I guess a C16 (for example) gives just a tad bit more amperage, than a
(US) 15A. But that makes me wonder if you'd still use #14 gauge wire?
I really dont know????
I've done lots of wiring, in the US, but I'd be confused in other
countries. But I normally just use #12 gauge on everything regardless
if the breaker is a 15A or 20A. For the samll amount of difference in
cost, I dont have to stock two different cable sizes.` I normally use
20A breakers on all outlets, and only use 15A on lighting, or a
dedicated circuit for something like a furnace or sump pump.
I just googled "C32 circuit breaker". Yes, that is a common rating,
lots of websites are selling them. It looks like the letter "C" has
something to do with the tripping delay too. (they also have "A" "B"
"D" and "E.).
I'm curious. Does it say the manufacturer on those breakers you have?
I doubt it's any of the common ones like Square D, GE, Siemens, etc...
On 30/01/2015 17:03, email@example.com wrote:
thought the unit is in millimeter but now I think it is mm2 because a
wire of 4mm in diameter is close to #8 gauge. The 4mm wires I see here
are not that big. I just googled 2.5 mm wire. There are many hits.j
So a 4mm2 wire is slightly smaller than #13 gauge.
I have worked with both #12 and #14 wires. #12 is stiffer, somewhat more
difficult to work with.
On Friday, January 30, 2015 at 6:55:13 AM UTC-5, yyy378 wrote:
Where did you see that? The wire gauge tables I looked at
put 4 mm2 between 10 and 12 gauge. And he says they doubled
the conductors up. The breaker is 32A, so, from what I see,
he has sufficient ampacity in those, ie about 50A capacity.
On 29/01/2015 04:14, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
can't believe what I saw. The wire, including the sheath, is only 0.7
mm. I touched the wire. It's lukewarm. The saw has been working on and
off for about an hour. I'll see how much it would cost to replace the
wire with a bigger one.
My simple solution would be to put the scanner on it's own dedicated
UPS and unplug that UPS just before starting to use the scanner. If
the existing UPS is large enough to handle the scanner and computer
system for a while, you could leave the computer plugged in to it too.
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