How to connect #12 stranded to #10 solid

I have to make some connections inside an electrical box between #10 solid and stranded #12. I tried wirenuts, but it doesn't seem particularly secure. I have only used crimp connectors on standed; can they be used on solid? If not, then what? Thanks.

Reply to
toller
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The only stranded - solid connection that I trust is solder. You'll likely get about 37 other different opinions...

You can 't> I have to make some connections inside an electrical box between #10 solid

Reply to
Robert Barr

Use pliers to twist and tighten the stranded wire onto the solid and then twist your wire connectors onto the splice.

Reply to
John Grabowski

why are are we connecting #10 & #12 conductors?

which wire is upstream? & what is capacity of the circuit breaker?

cheers Bob

Reply to
Bob K 207

I am hardwiring a transfer switch. The cable from the generator is solid

10, and the internal wiring on the switch is standed 12.
Reply to
toller

These will clamp those wires together tighter than a bull's backside in fly season:

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But you'll have to wrap the hell out of them with tape to make sure the electrons can't get loose. If it was me, I'd solder 'em.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff Wisnia

I thought a connection that relied on solder was a code violation?

Tin it with solder? Will it hold together when I twist it?

Reply to
toller

i agree. it may be overkill, but its cheap, easy, and works every time.

randy

Reply to
xrongor

Maybe you are using the wrong size of wire nut.

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

yup. if you tin it, not encase it....

randy

Reply to
xrongor

regular old red scotchlock/ideal wirenut/wingnut twist the stranded line it up with the solid, clip the ends off evenly, then poke em into and then twist the wirenut.

Reply to
bumtracks

I would use wire nuts that have a brass insert with a set screw that you tighten onto the wires, after trimming the excess hanging out the insert you screw on a plastic cap. When finished it looks just like a twist-on wire nut. A "Marr #2 insulated wire connector" is listed as good for two solid or stranded #10 wires down to five #14s.

Reply to
Eric Tonks

I was all set to sold the wires, but these look like they ought to be plenty secure; if anyone locally has them. Thanks

Reply to
toller

Yes, it is -- but if fastened with a wire nut, the connection relies on the nut, not the solder.

Sure will. Try it and see.

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Reply to
Doug Miller

I think somepeople's option against this is, if you get a short, or a groundfault, the solder could melt and break the circuit. I think people want faults handled by protective equipment, not the wire itself. Imagine you overload the circuit and your connections come undone. :(

later,

tom @

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Reply to
newsgroups01REMOVEME

Yeah. I think it's in the wiring methods article. Don't remember the exact section off the top of my head.

later,

tom @

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Reply to
newsgroups01REMOVEME

This would concern me, maybe I have the wrong sized switch.

Might want to do further research into the setup.

later,

tom @

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Reply to
newsgroups01REMOVEME

The switch is rated to 21a (240v), so #12 internal is fine, but the line going to it (about 80') had to be #10/3.

Actually I only plan on using it for 14a (120v) so #12, or even #14, would have been fine; but it seemed prudent to set it up for a larger generator since the work is about the same.

Reply to
toller

i dont believe tinning a wire before nutting it is 'relying on solder', but i could be wrong..

randy

Reply to
xrongor

Ditto this, I have used these for decades. Best thing for stranded, or mismatched sizes, or large bunches. Ideal brand used to make them.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

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