How to attach shed frame to slab?

Hi folks,
I will be buying a prefab shed from lowes that is 12x16. It still has to be assembled, I think they give you the frames built though. I was curious to know how to attach the frames to the slab... I think they assume the purchaser will be placing it on leveling blocks, and not on a slab. (yes, I need the cement floor, i'll be running electrical to it)
do I have to drill into it, can i liquid nail it (this may sound like a stupid idea... i don't know)?
Thanks everyone.
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It pretty much depends on what you are up against weather wise. I get 80MPH winds here occasionally, so I'd tie it down as well as possible. On the other hand if high winds aren't a problem, one of those Ramset type nail drivers likely would do. For the best hold down in an existing slab, Concrete anchors epoxied into drilled holes are about as good as it gets. They sell a 2 part epoxy at big box stores in caulking gun tubes. Thats what I used for my 4 post lift, I've regularly picked up 6000+ lbs, for years and it hasn't budged. I go back and attempt to tighten the fasteners occasionally, and it has yet to need it.
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if you havent poured the slab yet install anchor bolts, and when we built mine added construction adhesive too and caulking.
my shed is 16 by 20 with 10 foot high walls and a 12 foot peak.
it has commercial shelving inside it, screwed to the frame of the shed,
it isnt going anywhere
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I see, and then just drill holes in the base of the frame and slip it over the bolts - then put a washer/nut to tie it down...? I think that is what I will do...
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you could also add in a layer of gasket foam between the frame and the slab.
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I'd put something between the base of the frame and the concrete: Rubber, plastic, whatever - even a treated 2x4 sill plate - to minimize the chance of water damage and rot.
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On Tue, 27 May 2008 03:54:51 -0700 (PDT), RedDwarf

If you go to a real fastener store you can get TapCons that are 3/8" or so and 5" or 6" long. That will get you through a 2x4 PT sill plate the base of the shed, a washer and still get a good bite in the concrete.
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I have a 10'x16' shed on cement that I built. I poured the cement, and just used the regular commercial concrete anchors imbedded in the wet cement. Just don't sink them too deep. That is the best way. If you're using existing cement, I'd use good quality drive-pin anchors or the epoxied ones. Make sure you use PT'd sill plates, and use a foam gasket under the sills. You might want to explore more options before buying that prefabbed shed. I looked at all the prefab sheds at home depot, and they were just a plain rip-off pricewise. I built a real building instead of a shed with a real garage door, (not swing-out ones) electricity in it with cement for about half the cost of the prefab. Something to think about anyhow.
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How deep should the cement be in heavy freezing in the winter? That's why I'm thinking of hiring out to do it. I believe it needs a stone base. I need a permanent base due to woodchucks digging under the other shed and wrecking it. The other shed is PT wood. After some years, the wood is rotting because of shade trees. That's why I'm thinking of the prefab kind made out of plastic (for want of a better word). There's a handyman service locally who'll put together things for people. Marina
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