GE Dishwasher Won't Drain


My GE dishwasher (Model GSD3408K00WW) seems to cycle normally except it doesn't drain the water at the end of the cycle.
This model doesn't have a "cancel" button to drain and reset.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Ian Stock
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I'd start with the drain valve. Does it get power? Does it open? You should be able to hear it click as the solenoid actuates and there may even be a visible part on the outside to move. Is something clogging the drain hose? I had one plug up from an errant cherry pit right at the drain valve.
check for more info at www.repairclinic.com www.applianceaid.com
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wrote:

All the things I woudl do first.
The thing I would do last is check for a tiny chicken bone in the anti-siphon device at the top of the sink, if there is one. I'd do it last because I can't think of anything else, and that was the last thing I did, and after I found the bone, I didn't have to do anything more. It was part of the thin bone right next to the drumstick. Who'd a thunk it? And I still don't know why the bone kept it from draining.

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No chicken bones. No cherry pits.
BUT,,,,, the solenoid seems to actuate but only for a quick flick and then closes again. I believe it is supposed to stay open for the drain cycle.
Any advice on what to look for or do next?
I am at a cottage so repair help is at best remote, costly, and days away. I'd like to get this one myself of possbile.
Thanks,
Ian
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You know the what, now have to find the why. Do you have a meter? If so, check to see if voltage is holding on the drain solenoid. If so, it is the solenoid, if not, it is probably the control that sends the juice to it.
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wrote:

Check the voltage at the solennoid. It should be about 110 VAC. Be sure to put your meter on the 200 VAC range, or something greater than 120 VAC. Is there voltage only when it flicks, or for what would be the entire drain part of the cycle? If only when it flicks, it's the timer or timer switches. If all the time, the solenoid is bad.
Everyone should have a meter. They only cost from 3 to 20 dollars for a good enough one.
But if you don't, or as a double check, in this case, you can take a piece of lamp cord with a plug on the end and solder a small rubber covered alligator clip to the end of each of the wires. Then remove BOTH wires from the dishwasher to the solenoid. They are almost certainly in one connectors. Clip one of your alligator clips to one of the metal tabs on the solenoid, and then touch or clip the other aliigator clip to other tab. Of course don't touch the first tab or alligator clip or you'll blow the fuse, melt the alligator clip and if you're touching the metal, maybe burn yourself. But I'm a klutz and I've never hurt myself yet.
When both wires are connected, the solenoid should stay open the whole time. If it doesn't the solenoid is bad.

If you are roughing it at a cottage, you should use brambles to scrape your dishes, the stream to wash them, and leaves to dry them.
But if you have no alligator clips, you can strip for a quarter or half inch and twist each end of the wire to make them like probes and test that way.
Wait a second. If you can't buy a meter, how are you going to buy a solenoid or whatever else is broken?

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wrote:

Take two steps back. Did I change the plumbing under the sick? Did I forget too knock out the plastic thing from the new disposal plumbing. Is the anti-siphon tube at attention or attached to the sink?
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There is a check valve in the drain line at the pump. Stuck?
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Bone in the impeller?

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wrote:

The washer sprays, which leads me to believe that the impeller is pumping. Doesn't the same pump spray inside and drain the tank, depending on the solenoid position?
Ian
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Yes
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OK. Hopefully last post.
Power to solenoid is intermittent through the cycle. As I cycle through, there are flashes of voltage to the solenoid it signal doesn't last. That said, i can't figure out how the controller could be shot. Isn't it just driven off a timer?
On a separate note, can someone explain (or confirm) the mechanics of this machine? It seems that there is a motor, that drives a pump under the center of the tub. The water drains into the pump from just back of center. The pump either pumps the water up the center to the sprayer (solenoid off), or (solenoid on) through a tube on the bottom of the pump housing, out to another reservoir on the backside of the bottom. This reservoir seems to be an overflow from the inside back of the tub. What I don't understand is: if the drain water is being pumped out into the second reservoir, what prevents it from just being pumped back into the tub through the overflow? Should the overflow be one-way? If so, if there a chance that this is my problem (as well)?
Ian
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Ian wrote:

Yes, and timers, clocks, what ever you want to call them do go bad all the time. Sure sounds like yours is bad. In some cases it's possible to repair the timer. All you need to do is find the bad switch(s) on the timer assembly and replace them. Or buy and install a new timer. Or on other equipment where the original switches aren't available, many times I've opened up a snap action switch ("micro switch" is a brand name) open them up, clean the contacts and put them together again.
You lost me down below.

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wrote:

With this probelm, I don't know why you expect this to be the last post. :(
I don't know machines by model, but do you have a knob that you can turn to advance the mahcine to the next part of the cycle? Does it rotate when you don't touch it. Do you hear clicks periodically?>
If so you have a mechanical timer. (I assume by now they make totally electronic times, like I think they do for clothes washers and dryers.)
You'd have to take out the timer/switches to replace it anyhow, and if it's mechanical, absolutely you may be able to just replace or repair the one bad switch. IF you can't get a switch locally, try www.mouser.com The online catalog has dimensions and if you click on the right field, it will show you more details including sketches. You'll have to look at the sketch to see what you're getting.

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