Gas ignitor on Caloric Stove

One of the four burners on our 4 burner gas stove, the burner we use the most is not always able to get the ignitor to work. By starting the ignitor with another burner I can get the bad one to work. Is there just one ignitor or 4 separate ones? Why I wonder does the one burner not light correctly. It is almost as if something was stopped up or ? Any ideas appreciated. TIA The unit is about 12 years old. joevan
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Hi,
'Need a little more info on this. Is yours a sealed burner stove, or conventional burners (air gap around each burner)?
Most of the older conventionals share an ignitor between two burners. Plugged burner ignition ports are common, and can be cleaned out with a straight pin. You'll see several of them on the side of the burner facing the ignitor/ignition tube.
If sealed burners, take a close look at the little ceramic 'spark plug'. A cracked ceramic ignitor isn't unusual, especially on the most-used burner, and can prevent proper spark.
Hope that's of some help.
--
God bless,

Dave Harnish
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wrote:

say. I will check the ports and clean as needed. joevan
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wrote:

This is my problem right now with my own Caloric stove; the most used burner often won't light on its own. The ceramic ignitor is cracked. How can I fix/replace this? I want to get another few months to a year out of this stove before I replace it (mfrd in 1989, doesn't owe me much, admittedly).
And any recommendations from the cohort on a good gas stove in the $600 range? I'd like a high-output and a low-output burner and as few electronic controls as possible.
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snipped-for-privacy@suds.com wrote in message
Hi,

That would depend on the model#/style of your range... http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html *Some* model# helps.
A common Caloric ignitor electrode... http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N43443 Surface burner spark electrode

Some consumer opinions that may help... http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Large_Appliances-All-Ranges-Gas
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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On 30 Dec 2003 19:15:54 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (jeff) wrote:
My Caloric stove model number is RSS356UW.

This looks exactly like the broken igniter! Do I just yank out the old one and plug in a new one? If so, I'll order one from you!
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snipped-for-privacy@suds.com wrote in message (jeff) wrote:

Hi,
Remove the burner top, there should be 1 star screw to remove and the burner base will lift up and off of the cooktop to access the electrode, it is often held to the burner base with a push on clip....very easy to replace :)
A breakdown of the top area....may help...
http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/AM18875.gif
That should be the exact part for your model# :)
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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So you have gas cooktop burners with a spark ignition system?
One burner won't *spark* any longer when turned on and as a result won't light??
If you turn on one of the other burners, the one in question *will* spark and thus light???

Each burner's gas valve will have a separate ignition switch mounted on it. There is usually only 1 "spark module" which causes the spark for all the burners.
On a 'sealed burner' cooktop model there is one "spark electrode" (sometimes referred to as an ignitor) for each burner. On a conventional (non-sealed) cooktop burner, there is usually one spark electrode for each *pair* (front and rear) burner set.

If the burner in question is not *sparking* when turned on but will spark if another burner is turned on, the problem is likely in the ignition switch mounted on the burner's valve but could be the wiring running to or from that switch.
If it is sparking but just not *lighting*, I can't see how turning on one of the other burners would make a difference but checking the burner's gas ports might be something to look into. BTW. Do NOT use a toothpick to probe the gas ports as splinters can get lodged inside the burner leading to further problems.
JMO
Dan O. - Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411 loric+range
=~~~~~~
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wrote:

I had a bad igniter switch on one burner and it turned out to just be loose and not pushed down on the shaft.
Then, later the left two burner igniters didn't work and that turned out to be the high voltage module on the back of the stove. I just wired all 4 igniters to the remaining good half of the module.
PJ
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wrote:

now. I am wondering if anyone else has noticed this--- The burner seems to light better when applying a bit of downward pressure when turning the burner on. Just what happens at the point of ignition? joevan
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Piece of crap
Jane

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