I reviewed many previous messages and looked at the gas dryer repair web page but still have questions. I checked the ignitor, 2 soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all had continuity. i dont think it has a high temp cut off. the leads to the ignitor only showed 38v. i also had 120v to the gas valve. drum turns..but no heat. any ideas. thanks
OOPS! Typo... I meant 5 years, not 15... but it sure feels like 15 sometimes! (and forget the digital sig, too)
Is the gas turned on?
Hi,
Make, model#, approx age?
Still leaves....motor heat switch, timer, temp selector switch ( if used ), operating thermostat(s), safety thermostat(s).
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid
Hi,
Flame sensor sounds bad!!
It shouldn't have, the sensor must be closed and opens up at a specific time.
jeff Appliance Repair Aid
thanks, guys. sorry its a Kenmore model 11087870100 22000 btu/h i got 120v to the gas valves. the ignitor does not glow however when i shorted across the sensor (flame) the ignitor glowed but the gas valve didnt open. should the gas valve open when the sensor "sees" the glow from the ignitor? or does the sensor switch need to open after it sees the glow ( to allow the gas to come on)?? at this point i'd think its the flame sensor.....what u think? thanks
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I worked on a Kenmore with similar symptoms. Needed new coils for the solenoid on the gas valve. No natural gas work needed, all electric.
In alt.home.repair on Wed, 27 Jul 2005 17:32:48 -0400 bill posted:
I see it's fixed now, but for something next time, you shouldn't stop with the voltage. Unplug it and check the resistance across the gas valves. It shouldn't be zero ohms on the lowest scale and they shouldn't be infinity. (shorted and open). I'm sure that even if it is inbetween the electric part of the valve could be bad, and certainly the mechanical part, but that would be rare. Most failures of most simple electrical things are opens or shorts.
P&M
the ignitor does not glow however when
Meirman
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