Garage door stuck

Whenever the weather is cold, my garage door gets stuck when it's opened about six inches. I have to help it along by pulling it up when it reaches the six inch point. I have oiled and WD40'd the central track that actually pulls the garage and although this seems to help once, I'm back to the same thing again the next day.
Also, it doesn't have to be very cold. If I get up and the temperature is 40 degrees, I'll get the same problem.
Andy ideas on what to do about this or what's causing it?
Thanks!
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D'Olier wrote:

Hi, Spring? Cecked proper tension? With opener disengaged, it should go up or down with minimal force. (like one finger push). Tony
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At my Mother's house, we are having this problem, too.
I oiled and everything. Then I discovered that the tracks are out of alignment. Measuring diagonally from front to back should be equal distances, but they are off by about 5". The door stops about 2 feet up in the cold winter months. It can be opened manually - sometimes - but it's a real pain...

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D'Olier wrote:

Disconnect the opener and open and close it manually. It should stay fully open, fully closed and it should be balanced about half way up and move smoothly all the way. My guess is the springs have stretched over the years and now need adjusting. If you don't have the the installation manual, get a pro in to take care of it. If you have the manual read it carefully and pay attention to the warnings.
--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
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And I suggest that WD40 should not be seen as a lubricant. It displaces water, it serves as a penetrant, it loosens stuff, but it is not a lubricant. Small amount of lithium grease on the opener track should be sufficient. I prefer to remind of the Meehan reminder. Disconnect the opener, raise the door until one of the springs shows a sag. The other one should be doing the exact same thing. If they have the same color end, and are identically anchored at their attachment point, it's time to think about replacing both of them at the same time. This time with the steel 'keeper' cable. In the process of raising the door, note any places where it binds, even a little bit. And when the door is at about hip level, you should be able to turn loose of it and it should continue to sit there. Regarding the 6", see what is 6" above the door. Might be the start of the radius portion of the track, there's a junction there. You need to see what the opener 'feels'.

the
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Yea, they call it a lubricant. It is, but it is a very poor lubricant for most uses. It is more of a solvent. For the use in question it is worthless as a lubricant, but it does make a good solvent and cleaner.
BTW NEVER NEVER use that stuff in a lock. It will in time just gum up the works really bad.
--
Joseph Meehan

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On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 14:53:57 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"

You are correct sir!
I've taken enough fans apart and oiled to know that wd-40 is the poorest of all lubricants. I now follow it up with an oil and a lubriplate paste to get real staying power.
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wrote:

if you want a spray on lubricant, i swear by tri-flo. works in locks too!!
randy
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After lubing with oil and checking movement disconected from opener and adjusting if necessary there are up-down force adjustments on the motor that may neeed adjusting. Disconected from the opener the door should open and close with equal force
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Is it a screw drive opener? If so the wrong grease may have been used that thickens when it gets cold. If so the screw needs to be flushed w/ oil & regreased with the proper type. Lubriplate Low Temp is what is normally recommended.
If it's a chain drive or belt drive the bottom of the rail should be greased lightly the full length of the rail.
Of course this in addition to making sure the door works properly by hand as many others has mentioned.
Doordoc www.DoorsAndOpeners.com
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