Fluorescent Not Starting At Initial Turnons ?

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Chuck wrote:

If you are not just joking. Why?
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Sometimes this helps where the recomended grounding is lacking, or where the bulbs have a coating of slightly-conductive dirt/dust. The explanation is that touching the bulb can overcome the above in favor of increasing electric field intensity ("voltage gradient") within an unstarted bulb where it needs to be increased.
I would look into implementying cleaning of bulbs, proper grounding, and avoiding 34/35 watt "energy saver" versions of F40.
Furthermore, I hope you are not using the newfangled better 1-inch-wide "T8" with ballasts made for the "older stuff".
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
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Don Klipstein wrote:

Thanks Lou
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On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 05:53:29 -0700 (PDT), beecrofter

If this makes them start they are not properly grounded
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On Sep 14, 11:29 am, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

The way it works is that there is an inter\\nal field from the hot end of the fixture to your hand, capacitively coupled thru the glass, that starts the arc. This happens when the voltage differential between the two ends of the bulb is not enough to strike the initial arc. If the fixture is grounded, and the bulbs are within a couple of inches of the fixture (metal), then the arc will start from the hot end of the bulb to the fixture (coupled thru the glass) and that starts the lighting. If the fixture is not grounded, then the initial arc from the hot end of the bulb to ground does not exist, and the fixture will not light. That is why there is usually a warning on ALL fixtures about grounding the metal case of the fixture.
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hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

It's amazing what I learn on this group. Chuck
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Probably made in China?

Not unusual. The cheapie lights often only work well under ideal conditions. As soon as anything changes, including the environment, problems can start with the cheap ones. I'll bet it's worst when humidity is highest.

New bulb sometimes helps. If they show any burn marks, etc., definitely replace.

Yes, with the cheapies stuff.

Yup. That's OK though; a lot of us are dated here<g>!

If new, bring it back to Lowes for replacement. But yes, replacement is often as cheap as bulbs and almost always cheaper than a ballast. BUT, a quality ballast might make the quality of the fixture rise significantly, so ... .

These always require a good, properly applied ground wire. A bad earth gnd can cause all of the problems you mentioned. Not only that, but things like distance from grounded fixture metal to bulbs can be critical too, so if you're bastadizing the fixtures at all or the design is bad, there's another possibility. Besides gnd, be certain Hot/Neutral polarity is correct too.
HTH,
Twayne`
Spend

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Reverse the two wires going to the fixture, and ground the metal fixture itself.
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wrote:

They MUST be grounded to light properly.
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Make sure you have the correct bulbs

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Robert11 wrote:

Considering where you bought it that would be a good guess.
My buddy really bought into all of the HD marketing. He had an outbuilding built and asked me to help him hang 4, 8' HO strip fixtures. He bought them from "the depot". Three of the fixtures didn't light properly. After troubleshooting and swapping stuff it turned out 3 of the ballasts were bad. We pulled the fixtures to return them. We brought them back and at least the guy was honest. He said they had changed over to some even cheesier supplier and returns were common. I told my buddy he was going to do the job himself if he bought more fixtures from "the depot". He bought 4 better quality fixtures at the local real supply house for less money and they worked the first time we turned them on.

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