Floor joists and tub drain

Gutting an 8' x 8' bath that had the tub on the left, the toilet and sink on the right with the house drain, and a length of lead drainpipe connecting them, across the joists. Needless to say, they did a bit of floor joist cutting, and used the flexibility of the lead drain to move the pipe around a bit. Well, I'm taking out the lead, and replacing it with PVC which is ridgid, and I'll probably have to make some new cuts. The pipe will run about 6 ft (possibly fewer), and with a 1/4 in/ft slope that's a 1-1/2 in drop from just under the floor at the tub. Are there any ways to brace these joists? Steel straps, perhaps? Any help will be appreciated.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I'd consider sistering steel plates to each side of the joist, extending maybe 1 or 2 feet each side of the cutout. 1/8" thick steel the full height of the joist. Just my gut feel.
Jim
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that's a tough situation. what depth are the joists and what is the span? by cuts do you mean notches or holes through the center? holes are better than notches. i believe codes say you can cut away only 1/6 of joist depth if notching but you can drill a hole 1/3 of joist depth in the center of a joist. if your joists are oversized for the span, you would have some leeway, but if they are close to their limit, you are in a tight spot. is sistering on a second joist and drilling holes through it a possibility? haven't heard of using steel straps...they'd have to be on the tension (underside) of the joists, and i doubt i'd fly with an inspector, if you are getting inspected, that is.
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House was built just after 1900, and the 2x4's are actually 2x4. I wasn't clear enough about the gutting: the subfloor is gone, and the joists are exposed from the top. The cutting has been done on this top side and down, mostly notches.
Sistering, either steel plates or wood seems to be the way to go.
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On 17 May 2006 18:14:31 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

My first impulse would be to leave it the hell alone, and my second would be to use copper, and bend it to match the existing cuts.
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