When my house was dormiered, the drywallers didn't get the drywall on the
second floor hall ceiling flat. There is a bump along one wall that is
noticable. Too late to rehang the drywall, so I'm thinking of filling the
bump. I have a change of 1/2" over a 45" span. Zero to 1/2" and back to zero
in 45". Out in the middle of the hall it won't be as noticable with the
ceiling painted white, but on the edges near the crown molding I'm going to
have to do something.
Do you think I can use drywall mud to build up the hollow? What should I do
to make sure it stays up and in place.
Is there any better solution? At least one better than shooting the
That sounds more like a framing problem than the drywall guys fault.
Assuming as you've described it the area is 'concave' and not convex, the
rafters in that area must be 1/2" out of line with the others, or bowed.
This would make sense because it they are 16" on center, two that are out of
line would give you a 48" spam for your 'holow' area.
You can't push the drywall up on the lower ends can you? That would indicate
the lower sides are not attached securely to the rafters. If this is the
case, you'd be best to get it fixed correctly or you'll just have cracks and
nail/screw pops later. If this is a recent job, get the contractor on the
horn and insist it be fixed.
If you're out of warranty, and the entire ceiling seems securely fastened
then your mud option is one option. However, depending on how good you are
with the trowel, you might also consider removing the drywall from the high
area, investigate why the problem occurred in the first place, and then
repairing it. Perhaps adding a 1/2 shim tp the rafters that are higher.
Can you get at the area from above? Maybe you can pull back some insulation
or something and see what things lool like from above before doing anything
If you think the overall 'dip' isn't going to be noticeable except at the
crown molding, try a peice of the molding and see if it has enough flex to
'bow' into the dip. If you are going to paint everything you may be able to
fill any small voids with a paintable caulk, but I wouldn't try this on
anything as large as 1/2".
Let us know how it goes!
It's out of warranty and hasn't cracked or popped so I assume it'a a joist
out of alignment. This hall is where old house mets new house. The remove
and repair is the right way, but there are way too many complications that I
don't want to deal with. Check in the attic is a good idea, I'll check it
out this evening. At the very least I can verify what is wrong and maybe get
Flexing the molding won't work because it's the joint of the two plane,
horizontal and vertical that make the hump noticable. What should be a
generally stright line has a bump. The molding would telegraph this same
bump. Also it's 4 1/2" wide crown, so I don't think I'll be flexing it,
Worse case then it's mud. Maybe I'll embed some mesh tape to give the mud
something to adhear to.
Thanks for your help!
Why? That is the best solution.
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Because it's a hugh can of worms. The whole ceiling is also tilted about 1"
over 10 feet. If I staft fixing one, then I really should fix them all and I
don't really want to tear down all the molding, drop the ceiling and put it
all back up again. If I can get rid of this dip, then I can hide all the
Why is it the drywallers fault? They hang on what is there. Drywall is
notorious for showing defects, plumb/square.
Dry wall mud is not intended to be that thick in most situations. I doubt
that it would look right and for very long. What about a sheet of 1/4 inch
drywall in 1/2 of the area mentioned, 22.5 inches. The mud will only be a
You could build the area up with successive layers of wire
mesh and mud. Do the hog work yourself then get a pro to do the
Probably regret it some day, cheap fixes have a bad habit
of coming back to haunt you.
Have you considered covering the area with tongue and grove
boards or some type of paneling. Sort of a feature wall idea
but on the ceiling or the dormer area.
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