Enlarge a hole in studs

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Joe:
Read the description carefully.
"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter mounting holes."
You'll need hole saws with 2 different sized mounting holes to use the Oops Arbor.
In other words, your "mistake size" hole saw will need a 1/2" mounting hole while your "fixed it size" hole saw will need to be 3/8".
You'll get rid of the plywood pieces, but may have to add a bunch of duplicate OD hole saws.
I'd stick with the plywood if it works for you.
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On Wed, 14 Oct 2009 11:57:46 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Many times you can put two hole saws on one regular arbor and do the same thing.
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snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote: ...

That'd be my first thought having seen that but hadn't thought of it before. Then at least if don't have right size(s) what you get will fit the arbor you have...
Primary difficulty I'd foresee is whether arbor is long enough to stack the two and still have sufficient thread length.
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Doug Brown posted for all of us...

Mads by Starrett I believe.
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Tekkie Don\'t bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.

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Yep, that was posted about #12 in this thread and commented on a couple of times.
R
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Ahhh good idea! Thanks!

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On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:19:47 -0400, "MiamiCuse"

it - along with setting off the smoke alarm.
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MiamiCuse wrote:

Not so neat hole, use the sawzall.
Neat hole, router (if room)...a 1/2" bit with 1/4 shank bit can do it by extending the cutter partially through the hole so you can use the shank to guide on the existing hole; after doing that, use a 1/4" cutter from the opposite side (or bottom bearing flush trim bit from the same side) and guide the shank on the enlarged portion of the hole to trim the rest of the hole to size.
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MiamiCuse wrote:

your larger hole saw.
s
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On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:19:47 -0400, "MiamiCuse"

Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole larger.
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Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important? I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood. Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/ end.
R
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On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:22:11 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

splitting either.
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RicodJour wrote:

Well, there's roughing out and hacking...
_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be failure points.
A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so much". There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was talking about to fixup the problem. (Of course, if he had bothered to measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... :( )
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Agreed it is not critical in a non-load-bearing wall.

Most splits in wood start as shrinkage checking, and/or seasonal changes in humidity, not from excess load. A hacked hole has jagged edges that concentrate the stress.
Instill good habits. I would also venture that a hole saw in a reasonable drill would take less time than using a reciprocating saw, jigsaw or Rotozip.
R
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