My 40 gallon low boy electric water heater may need maintenance. When I hook the garden hose to it to wash the crud out, do I have to turn off the incoming water, or do I just let it rip for a few minutes? The last time I did it, I turned off the power and the water and let all of the tank water run out. It seems to me that having the incoming water would serve to wash the crud out instead of just letting it flow out.
What you may wish to do if you are going to go to those lengths of cleaning out you water heater is:
1) Turn the electric off to the water heater and shut off the water supply to the tank. 2)Drain the tank and remove the POS plastic drain valve 3) Install a full port 3/4" (1/4 turn) ball valve. 4) Hook up the garden hose for flushing 5) Leave the water on to the water heater (this gives max press to remove the debris.) 6) Flush out any remaining debris. 7) Fill the tank back up, remove the drain hose, purge any air at the faucets and turn the electric back on.In the future you should only have to drain anywhere from 1 to 5 gallons of water or until the water runs clear and or no visible debris remains. Bubba
Pardon me for being anal, but to be sure, in Step 5, don't you mean to turn the water back on since I turned it off in Step 1?
I did everything above (except replace the plastic drain valve, which I want to do). I opened two hot water faucets in the house to give the tank air to drain. After I closed the hot water faucets and then refilled the tank, I turn on the hot water faucets again to get rid of the air. The water that came out was nasty. If I fill the sink, it still has a yellow tint to it.
Now I'm wondering if I actually got the crap out of the tank. Does it sound like I need to go through the process again? When I first turned the drain valve on, the water coming out of it looked clean. In fact, the only nasty water I ever saw was coming out of the faucet.
Regarding replacing the plastic drain faucet, how do I do that? It's barely sticking out of the water heater. Should I be able to unscrew the whole assembly? When I go to Lowe's or Home Depot to get the 1/4 turn valve, what are the exact specifications? What size pipe, or however they're specified?
Thanks for your help!
hmmm... might be rust? that's not good. If it doesn't go away I'd recommend draining it again and having a look at the anode. If it's completely gone, just get a new heater.
yes.
3/4" pipe thread. You'll need a 3/4" dielectric nipple (should be right with the water heater stuff, that's what's used on the inlet/outlet pipes of a typical residential water heater,) a 3/4" pipe thread ball valve, and a 3/4" male pipe thread to garden hose thread adapter (typically found in the "loose brass fittings" area of the plumbing department.) Get a brass garden hose fitting cap as well, leave that on when you're not flushing. that way if you inadvertantly kick the valve you won't soak your shoes (or anything else within three feet of the water heater)Since this is an electric water heater, you ought to be able to handle replacing it yourself, if required. I'd go ahead and put the brass drain valve on it as described above before you even fill it for the first time. Then flush it every year and check the anode every couple.
good luck
nate
It didn't look like rust, but I'll keep an eye on it. How do I check the anode?
Thanks for your patience. This answer is excellent.
Yes, you are correct. My mistake
Im sorry to say but if you didnt replace that cheap plastic drain valve then you likely got nothing out of the water heater except water. The clearance between that washer and its seat is very very small. Thus the need for a full port valve. In regards to removing the plastic valve, most of the time they crack off. Just grab it with channel locks at the base, rock it back and forth a bit if you can to get it loose but most of the time they just break. Dont worry. Its only plastic. It will come out. The 1/4 turn valve (ball valve) is 3/4" IPT (iron pipe thread). It has female threads at both ends. Install a short nipple (die-electric) in the tank first, then the ball valve, then a 3/4 MPT (male pipe thread) to hose adapter. Bubba
Its most likely just stuff you stirred up in the tank. Let it sit an hour or so and it will all settle to the bottom again.
The anode rode gets checked visually. Drain part or all of the water. Remove the relief valve if its in the side and look inside the tank. The rod looks like a smooth round 3/4" diameter rod new. It will probably look eaten away if its been in a few year. Unscrew it and install a new one if it is. Maybe $30 give or take a few. Bubba
you'll get a better flush out if you turn the water off, open the drain valve (your hose), then open the t&p valve to vent the tank. After the tank is MT, THEN open your water supply a few seconds at a time to give the bottom a blast. After you're through, then close the drain, the T&P, and proceed with the refill before turning the heater back on.
s
Makes sense. I wonder how the manufacturers get away with that.
So are you saying that if it breaks off, I should still be able to get the rest of the plastic pipe out of the threaded part of the water heater? Man, if I break it off and can't get the right one in there, I'm out of hot water until I get a new water heater or a plumber! Just looking for some reassurance here.
Is this what the replacement valve should look like?
The water heater is a State Industries P64020LS. The search function on their web site is broken, so I cannot find a manual for it. Based on what I just saw on the water heater, there is no way to replace a dip tube or an anode. There is about a foot clearance between the unit and the floor, since the water heater is in the crawl space. There are two plugs in the top, which are for blowing in the insulation. The only ports are the hot and cold water connections. Based on the reading I've done, the anode is a combo anode that is part of the hot water outlet assembly.
If the information I found is correct, the unit was installed in 2000. If that's true, it's probably time to start thinking about a new one, isn't it? The guy who installed it did so in a way that replacing it should not require a plumber. It's piped with copper. There are cutoff valves and unions (correct name) to make disconnecting the pipes easy.
This thread has been extremely helpful in learning more about water heaters. If I do get a new one (which I'm not going to do without a little more research into the true condition of this one), at least I will know to look for replaceable dip tubes and magnesium anodes. Right?
On 2/14/2009 5:22 PM mcp6453 spake thus:
Make that "shutoff valves", not cutoff.
Are there flex connections between the plumbing and the heater? That's generally the easiest way to connect, and makes it even more "doesn't require a plumber to replace".
If not, you can easily add them yourself.
Since you'd have to disconnect the in and out to do the dip tube, then it shouldn't be a problem to tip it over enough to get the dip tube out. and the anode shouldn't be all that long either.
s
n't go away I'd
Do be prepared to replace the tank if you mess with it!
Removing valves, drain valve will likewly break off, repolacing anodes and dip tubes, disturbingf the rust which may be plugging a leak.
Your far better off to leave it alone till it breaks/leaks and then install new tank which will have better insulation.
Yes, its only plastic. A screwdriver or whatever and a little picking at it and you will get it out. They are usually brittle since they have been exposed to heat for a long time.
Yes, that's pretty much the valve Im talking about.
Make sure you have a new o-ring or gasket or whatever that particular element uses to reseal it. Bubba
Certainly but just for more realistic info, most people don't generally replace a dip tube or anode rod during the life of a water heater. Flushing the bottom once in a while is probably the best thing you can do for it. Then of course we could get into the aspects of why an expansion tank is a good idea to install on a water heater and required in a lot of city codes (like mine). Then a pressure reducing valve on the home to bring any unneeded high city water pressure down to a more "friendly" 55 to 75 psi. Lower pressures use less water and extend the life of tanks, hoses and faucet cartridges. Bubba Bubba
I agree in general, but in cases where there's financial considerations in play, one can occasionally get lucky. I've done everything mentioned in this thread save for the dip tube on an 18-year old gas water heater just because new ones are so ludicrously expensive (and being a new home moaner, a lot of disposable cash went away just to buy the place.) Took Excessive Force(tm) to undo all the threaded connections, but a little pipe dope on the threads was all that was required to put it back together. Now have clean hot water for my morning shower. Yay.
Since the OP is talking about an electric, yeah, I can see the case for replacement. Electrics at least around here are about half the price of gas and are a DIY job for an able handyman.
nate
I thought that the expansion tank was only required *if* you had a BFP installed... (of course, my understanding is that most PRVs are also BFPs...) I have neither and have not noticed problems, although my pressure does run a little high. Makes for an awesome shower, even all the way up on the second floor...
Now I do have lots of water hammer, despite the original plumber putting in air traps at most (all?) points of use (just capped pieces of pipe.) Do the new sealed cartridge things really work better than the old school way? If so, I might have to start using those whenever I rework a connection.
nate
n't go away I'd
please explain how lower pressures use less water??
e:
Yay.
de quoted text -
with a brand new 40 gallon 6 year warranty gas tank under 400 bucks wheres the savings?
by the time you buy all the supplies, perhaps some tools and mess with it spending a 100 bucks is easy:(
a leak may not occur immediately but disturbing things makes it more likely in the next 6 months.
a tank dumping rust means the glass lining has failed, the rust is likely clogging small leaks..........
disturb rust get leak soon:(
Most people use the valve exactly once, to drain the tank when they replace it. Sadly the concept of "maintenance" just does not occur to most people. Thus very few complaints about the lack of a sturdy valve...
Probably not necessary, but can't hurt. If it seals with an O-ring or gasket you may wish to pick up a replacement.
If you are going to Lowe's and don't have a good flashlight, their 3W
2-C cell LED "Task Force" flashlight is excellent, compact, and cheap, I have two. (I mention this because Lowe's is not at all convenient to me, and I went out of my way to get those flashlights. A good flashlight is key if you expect to see anything inside the tank. You still may not see anything...)nate
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