Heating element is not working. I checked the heating element with a
meter and it shows it has continuity at the terminals and shows no
signs of being broken or grounded when i check it on the housing,
visually and with a meter.
I do not have a meter to check AC current at the heating element where
the wires are plugged onto it. So while i had the dryer running i
checked it one of the little two wire circuit testers you can buy to
stick into a plug to see if you got fire. It lights up.
So my question is, can the element test out ok with the meter but
still be bad. I mean, i am sure anything is possible.
The element does not heat up or glow at all.
Since i am getting voltage to the element and it does not work is it
safe to say it is bad.
Did some searching on the net, and searched the group for something
similiar and did not really find anything.
Everything i read is that if a continuity test checks out, the element
is good. But like i said, i appears i am getting voltage to the
element but it does not heat.
Not an expert, but I have seen an element check OK with
continuity, but be bad. I didn't believe it, so I grabbed a
couple clip leads (DANGEROUS!) and clipped 120 to the
element. It started to heat, then quit. And, it was
I would simply monitor the voltage to the element -
When a hot element is being called for, you should see
120Vac at one end of the element, and zero Vac to ground at
the other end. IF so, then the element's bad. 120 measured
at both ends of the element indicates something else is
wrong. Zero at both ends says something else is wrong.
BE CAREFUL - BE SAFE - ONLY DO WHAT YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE
WITH AND KNOW IS SAFE.
Thanks for the replys.
Ok, what i have done is connect the heating element to 120 like the
pop rivet dood did. It heated up and continued to heat.
It did not get red, (is it supposed to and did not because it did not
see 240) or is 120 all these elements see?
It just started to turn a cherry color when i went ahead and uplugged
it(which was about maybe 10minutes) I pointed a little infra red temp
gun at it and it was hotter than the thing will read, which is a
Also as far as i see the little thermostat dookickies all show
Could the problem be in the timer?
or what else to look at?
Is it possible to have voltage at the element but for whatever reason
not enough? Cause i show voltage there as evidenced by my little
circuit tester glowing. But i don't know how much voltage as i don't
have a meter to read AC. My meter only has DC voltage capabilities.
Trip to the hardware store is in my future i guess. :)
Anyways, thanks again and any more suggestion would be appreciated.
When a heating element goes out they go open.
You might have a weak element, where one spot is burned almost away or you
might a shorted element where there's a shortcut. Both situation can be
detected through simply physical inspection.
It it looks good and doesn't measure open, then it's probably good.
Some model# helps.
Good so far.
Not normally, the element must be physically broken ot be bad.
You cannot check for 220-240 volts ( for a full size dryer ) AC
properly with a light testor.
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer
from heating ?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker... - heating element ... - burnt wire ... -
thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor heat switch
... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power cord/plug ...
A ohm meter test for these parts is below....
Appliance Repair Aid
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