Just bought our first electric dryer , wewe have always used gas in the
past . No natgas here , and propane would require installing a big tank . So
what size brbreaker do I need in the panel to power this thing ? Current
draw according to the model plate says it dawaws 22-24 amps , but there's
also the start current surge - I'm not sure if the heating element comes on
at power up .
So will a 30A breaker handle this , or do I need to go with a 40 ?
On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 10:59:34 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
All the dryers and similar that I've dealt with, the installation
instructions spec the ampacity requirement for the circuit, which
would include the breaker and wiring. Given that the plate says 24,
I would think 30 would be the correct size, assuming the wiring supports
Thanks , I was leaning towards a 30A , but wasn't sure . The wiring will
be new , the plan is to run 10/2 w/gnd , the run is about 25 feet or a bit
more - unless she wants it somewhere other than where I plan to put it . The
other likely location is right next to the power panel , a run of maybe 5-6
The code in most places for a new dryer or stove requires 4 wires. Two hot
wires, the neutral and a ground.
Number 10 wire is correct for most instalations of a 30 amp breaker.
When you get the dryer , you will need a 4 wire plug to match the socket you
are going to install.
Look at the dryer where the wires attach and see if there is a strap that
goes from the neutral to the frame of the dryer. If it is there , be sure
to remove it for the 4 wire cord instalation.
Years ago the dryers and stoves only used 3 wire plugs and the neutral and
frame were hooked together, but that is not the correct (code) way to do it
They may do it in some places. The ones I bought in the past did not .
I did a quick check of Lowes for the dryers I looked at the cord is extra.
Usually a wa to get around $ 20 to $ 30 more out of the sell.
About 25 years ago I needed a new dryer and not the cord so I asked them to
keep the cord and bring it to the house for free.
Immaterial; it the point is it gains virtually nothing in either safety
or operation. Not that it isn't _marginally_ better, but there's a
_long_ history that indicates it's a solution to an essentially
More than marginally. If you really feel that way, why run 23 wire to
your receptacle outlets anywhere. Just tag the neutral.
The error in your ways will quickly become apparent when you are
sitting on the garage floor with a metal cased tool in your hand.
Any voltage drop in the neutral will be imposed on the tool's case.
On Friday, September 11, 2015 at 4:14:09 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
I think there is agreement here that 4 wires for a dryer is a better method
than 3 wire. The fact remains that 3 wire is still perfectly legal
per NEC and per all the dryer manufacturer install instructions.
And that despite 3 wire being in use for half a century, until ~2000,
no one here can point to a single bad thing happening. We don't know
how many incidents, if any or what the code change was actually based on.
Presumably it;s not all that bad, because they addressed many other
things in the code during that half century and only more recently arrived
at requiring 4 wire for new circuits.
The remaining question is if you want to live with what is there, that's co
compliant and in widespread use or do something to marginally improve it.
If you choose the latter, is it going to be a bastardized,
non-compliant solution or one that is code compliant. If you choose the la
tter, the two solutions I see are to:
1 - Run a whole new 4 wire circuit, change the cord to 4 wire, change
the jumpering in the dryer..
2 - Change the cord to 4 wire, change the jumpering in the dryer,
replace the receptacle with a 4 wire and install a separate ground
wire from the receptacle that gets terminated pursuant to the code
exception that GFRE cited. And that last part isn't likely to be
easy because nearby grounding system points aren't likely to have
the required 10g ground conductor.
You could also choose some level of bastardization within choice
#2, eg hook the ground to a smaller than #10 grounding conductor, etc.
I know what I would do which is to leave it connected as 3 wire,
If for some reason you loose the ground that is also used as the neutral
connection from the dryer to the breaker panel your dryer frame will become
120 volts above ground. Touch it while grounded and you will find out.
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