Motors are typ lagging power factor; capacitors, leading.
Ah, OK. Incandescent lamps? Or, LED/fluorescent?
In the former case, you can purchase "commercial" bulbs that are rated
for 130V (instead of 120). This reduces light output, a bit. But,
also gives you a longer lasting bulb (heavier filament). Until
dimmable LED's become affordable, all of our "lamps on dimmers" are
You might look for a CVT (constant voltage transformer).
As they don't rely on "actives" as much, you can usually get
much higher capacity than would be practical in a solid state
[I had a "Lion Tamer" -- a play on the phrase "line tamer" or
perhaps vice versa? -- that was pretty capable. Also, pretty
big and heavy -- as it's lots of copper and iron! :< ]
Ick! An inspector seeing that, here, would probably not know whether
to "sh*t or go blind!" In either case, you wouldn't be happy with his
What happens when the "lighting fuse in the fusebox" is installed?
If you've literally run it to a *plug*, then when that fusebox fuse
is present, the blades of the "plug" are hot, can be touched by someone who's
not cautious, can be "plugged into" another circuit which could cause the
attached cord to end up carrying a portion of the load intended to be
carried by the house wiring *or* could cause the mains to be shorted
(if an unpolarized plug that you plugged in "backwards" *or* a polarized
plug that you've plugged into a circuit on the other "leg" of the mains!)
Or, the UPS can see mains voltage *impressed* on its outputs.
I don't see how you've done this.
The mains go to the load center. Through a fuse/breaker to a branch circuit.
The branch circuit feeds the lights.
This wiring is typically *inside* the walls of a structure.
You appear to be suggesting that you removed the wire from the
load side of the fuse (*in* the load center) and connected *to*
this wire a "plug". That plug can now be mated with a receptacle
(e.g., in your UPS).
But, that plug is attached to a wire that travels up through
the wall (is your residence wired different than 99.97735%
of the homes, here?).
So, you either have a cord dangling out of the load center
with a plug on the end.
Or, have a cord running to an outlet or some other point accessible
INSIDE the residence (but NOT within the walls themselves) that
is wired to the lighting branch circuit.
*AND*, a wire dangling inside the load center, unconnected.
More illogical assumptions, nothing dangles anywhere. The wire from the load side of the fuse was disconnected from the fuse. So any fuse in there can supply precisely nothing. That wire (still leading down the inside of the wall to the light switches) was extended to a flex running out of the load centre to the UPS's output strip, via a standard mains plug. So basically I have a bunch of lights operated by a mains plug, just like a standard lamp or table lamp does. Removing that plug from the UPS causes me to have a plug with lamps on the other end, much like.... a table lamp.
Bigamy is having one wife too many. Monogamy is the same. -- Oscar Wilde
So, you've got a wire coming out of the load center EXACTLY as I said above.
An inspector would immediately shut that down, here. You've got a *plug* on
the end of a wire leaving the load center, correct?
How do you think an inspector is going to see that as legitimate?
Does the plug from your "table lamp" pass through the load center, then
out and into some other source of power?
(I think not)
What do you think is wrong with a plug leading to a wire which goes through a wall? Load centre nothing to do with it. The wire just happens to pass through there, it's not connected to the load centre.
But not connected to it.
A conclusion is simply the place where someone got tired of thinking.
An inspector, here, would flag any wire coming out of a load center with
a plug on the end of it.
If you wanted to supply power to your household branch circuits THROUGH
an alternate power source, you'd be required to install a transfer switch.
If folks where YOU are think nothing of it, then why would you not be willing
to invite an inspector over?
I have no need to transfer anything, the lights only have one source, the UPS.
1) They most likely have rules as nonsensical as yours.
2) Why would I want an inspector to inspect my own house? I know it's fine.
3) If I was selling, it takes 5 minutes to put the wire back where it was. It's my UPS and I'd be taking it with me.
An Ohio teen has pleaded innocent to stealing his mother's credit card to pay for a friend's breast enlargement surgery.
Police say it's lucky they caught the guy quickly; otherwise, it may have turned into a bigger bust.
Pull the main breaker.
Better yet, REMOVE THE METER.
Load center should be "safe", right? Every wire nut should be removable,
every conductor touchable. The source of power has been completely
removed from *everything*!
In your scheme, who's to say ALL of the circuits aren't still being powered
by a 20KW genset behind the house? Is there any indication that there
is another ACTIVE source of power in play (e.g., like a transfer switch)?
The fire department, electrician, etc. don't know that.
*I* know I have a genset. But, just wiring it into the fuse box -- even
KNOWING that I have to ensure that the breakers to which it attaches
would have to be switched off prior to use -- doesn't count.
The same goes for solar panels.
A transfer switch IN PROXIMITY TO THE LOAD CENTER tells anyone
who attempts to access the load center that there is an
alternate source of power potentially available. EVEN IF YOU AREN'T
AVAILABLE TO TELL THEM THAT!
I can "safely" wire my genset output to any of the branch circuits
inside my house. And, dutifully disconnect the associated breakers.
Even disconnect the wires *from* the breakers and cap them off
with wire nuts/tape.
That doesn't mean it will pass an inspection!
The wires pass through the fuse box. And, I'm 100% sure there is a wire
nut involved (or equivalent). Simple question to answer: yes or no?
I don't care for inspectors with silly rules. Every house does not have to adhere to some standard or other. Things can be different, viva la difference! I know where my electricity goes, and anyone else can work it out with the use of only a few brain cells (not that anyone would be tampering with my house). Eg if the lights are still on when you turn off the main switch, there's power from somewhere else.
I don't know what a wire nut is. A small piece of connector strip is used, like this:
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.