Danny D bettting Pool on refrigerator

Some out there has to have experience running a betting pool. Will Danny D repair his refrigrator, or replace? What date? And will he choose the outcome, or will his wife issue an executive order?
My vote is: replace. June 21. By EO.
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Christopher A. Young
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On 7/13/2016 6:38 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

JUNE 21? OMG - this tread will last FOREVER!
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On 7/13/2016 9:50 AM, Taxed and Spent wrote:

Just like his tree bridge, clearing out the poison oak, and trucking in water to the houses on his street.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 09:56:20 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

What's your point?
How is that going to help me figure out how to further test a compressor that will start on a hard-start cap only 2 or so out of 20 or so tries, with an hour in between.
When it runs, it pulls 3 amps. When it won't run, it pulls 13.5 amps.
Why would a compressor start some times, and not others, when there is plenty of time (never less than an hour) between attempts?
Do you know the answer to that question?
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On 7/14/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

I know one very probable reason. Both probable and common.
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Christopher A. Young
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On 2016-07-13 9:38 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I whole year of this, we are un July already, unless the Mormon calendar is different.
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On 7/13/2016 2:13 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:

Sorry, brain failure. It's been excess hot where I live. I'd meant to type July.
Now, someone hand me a Hari-Kari.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 8:37:27 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Here you go...
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ihllBOHXzIs/maxresdefault.jpg
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 09:38:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I put my search filter on "Danny" to figure out what questions you asked that I reputedly didn't answer.
If *this* is the question, then how is this question going to help me figure out why the compressor sometimes runs (pulling 3 amps) on the hard-start capacitor, but mostly does not start (pulling 13.5 amps) even when there is an hour or more between attempts?
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 09:38:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about 1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).
http://i.cubeupload.com/Wgo5LG.jpg
The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the 17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).
http://i.cubeupload.com/vn8fws.jpg
I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3UkX69.jpg
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the *fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
This is all I think I know: 1. The compressor only runs at one speed. 2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off. 3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator. 4. That condenser fan also only has one speed. 5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up. 6. That fan also has only one speed. 7. There is no fan in the refrigerator. 8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans. 9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer. 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway). 12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator. 13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.
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On Friday, August 5, 2016 at 8:54:47 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:

<snip>
Alas, Mormy will never know, or if he does know, he doesn't care!
Whirlpool branding: Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Hotpoint and Kenmore.
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On 8/5/2016 7:05 PM, bob_villa wrote:

He knows, and he cares. RIP
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On Fri, 5 Aug 2016 19:05:51 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa wrote:

I don't want to say anything now about Chris, given the situation, as I hope he went peacefully and happily assigned to his God.
As for the Kenmore, I couldn't understand why the Embraco compressor would run sometimes, but not run most of the time. Clearly *something* was wrong - but I couldn't figure out what.
Pretty much, the only clue that makes sense is that the current was higher in the running compressor (about 3 amps) versus the new compressor (1.2 amps), but the compressors have different locked rotor amperage ratings (11.something for the new compressor versus 17.something for the older one).
Anyway, what I'll do differently on the new fridge is clean out the condenser coils both from the back *and* front, because when they moved the old fridge, more dust came out even though I had *thought* I had blown it all free with the 100psi compressed air.
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