I bought a sheet of 48x24" plexiglass at home depot (maybe about 1/8"
I am trying to cut in 7" slices (each 48" long).
Per the instructions from the Home Depot guy, I bought a blade that is
supposed to score the Plexiglass and then you snap it.
Well, I am having 2 problems.
First, I am finding it hard to score precisely on a straight line
(even though I am following a steel straight edge). The blade keeps
wanting to slip away slightly.
Second, after scoring with several passes, when I snap it, it ends up
breaking only partially along the line (and the rest breaks away at a
One solution, would be to just be more careful on scoring the line and
then scoring even deeper with more multiple passes.
Are there any EASIER and MORE accurate ways to cut plexiglass?
Can I use a regular table saw blade (or will it shatter it)?
What about a jigsaw or a dremel?
This will work also. Set the saw to a little less than half the thickness
of the plastic and slice a kerf on each side. Now snap it. You will have a
little edge in the center that is easy to file, sand or scrape.
This should give you a nice sharp edge.
While cutting use a steady feed rate. Slowing down and stopping will scorch
the edge. Usually blades used for plastic have no set to the teeth on the
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
I've used a table saw on plexi. It will be stinky, but it can be done.
I'd recommend taping the line you're going to be cutting.
I think it would be inconvenient to score and break on an 8 foot long
axis, so I'd recommend the table saw.
Otherwise, just put the scored plexi on a pipe or something that runs
the entire length of the score (score side up), then press down on the
plexi with a couple of 2x4s or something, so that the pressure is more
of less equal on either side of the pipe. You might need a helper.
I wouldn't recommend a Dremel (it will just melt it... trust me. :-) ),
but a jig saw with a blade of medium aggression (i.e. not metal
cutting, but not the super jagged either... maybe 10teeth per inch?)
Personally, I'd go with the table saw. It'll be much faster, and you're
more likely to get a clean cut with a straight edge. I only say the
table saw though because you're doing such long cuts. Usually it's just
easier and faster to score and break it, IMO.
1.) Use a utility knife blade with the tip broken off or use the blade
backwards, so the straight, non-beveled side of the blade is dragging on
the plastic. Scoring plastic is more like scraping than cutting.
2.) Slightly angle the blade so that it plows slightly into the straight
I've cut miles of styrene and plexiglasses by hand with this method
with excellent results. Try it!
Should have bought the plexi at a local glass company and had them cut
into whatever sizes you needed.... Ive done that before just for my own
convienience... just have to call them with the dimensions and pick
You have been given good advice on cutting plexi. Score and snap is
the way to go. a freind has a shop where he fabricates plexi. there
is a special blade designed for the purpose but it isn't common. YOu
have to go to a plexi supplier to find it. It has a hook on the end
so that the cutting edge faces toward you and he always scores by
draggin the blade toward himself. then he snaps it over the edge of
the table. He makes one heavy score and then snaps. he then uses a
buffing wheel to smooth the edge.
I'm surprised I didn't see this answer, I've used my bandsaw also for
Yesterday I even used my 80-tooth Diablo blade for cutting 1/8" plexi.
Main thing is to keep slow steady speed on feed. If you jam it in
there too fast, it'll shatter or chipout the plexi.
No one asked, what project you using 7x48 plexi for? Good luck!
The idea is to use the bit as a sharp point tool for drawing
(scouring) the line on the plexiglass by hand. Use that straight edge
steel ruler as a guide. I did not intend that you run the bit with
the router to make the cut. Doing that does indeed make a mess.
I would suggest a plywood blade (REVERSED) so that the teeth do not chip
and drag.. Also use the tape on the cut line.. Worked for me for both
plastics and lams..
Buffalo 'the Herd of One!'
I build acrylic display cases as a side business/hobby. I use a large table
saw with a very expensive ($200+) narrow kerf triple chip alternate tooth
profile blade made from C4 carbide (80 tooth). The blade should protrude
1/4" through the material. Next it gets run through a joiner for a beautiful
edge that will take polishing nicely. For scoring, I use a $1,800 Fletcher
multi material cutter...
Okay, okay, you need the cheap solution! For scoring I recommend a drywall T
square. The large T section helps keep it square and in position. I put some
"Foamies" self adhesive foam on the back of the T to keep it stationary. You
MUST be sure the successive passes you make are in the same groove or the
break will run out of the groove. With a single motion to break the
material, I can break out up to 1/4 inch thick sheets that look very clean.
However, I find it is hard to breakout pieces near a parallel edge without
runout and the accuracy may be off 1/64 or more end to end which is not
ideal for cementing boxes together. I use a fletcher scoring tool to make
the cut. It has a comfortable grip and changable blades. I only have to make
3 passes with this method on 1/8 material.
Check here for the heavy duty handheld plastic cutter
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