Stop storing your tools at the bottom of your swimming pool, and that won't
Seriously, though -- you ought to look at getting a dehumidifier for wherever
it is that you keep your tools. I *don't* have a problem with my tools
rusting, whether I've used them on drywall or not. It's an environment issue,
not a drywall issue. And I repeat: Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet. It
*can't*: rust is _by definition_ *hydrated* iron oxide. Iron oxide is black,
not red. It doesn't -- can't -- become rust without the presence of water.
Not enough to rust the blades on *my* utility knives -- but I don't store my
tools in a humid area, either. In any event, it certainly isn't gypsum that's
causing rust on tools that you've _washed the gypsum off of_.
Either you're not getting them as dry as you think you are, or you're storing
your tools in a humid place. Or maybe your cat pees in your toolbox.
Get a dehumidifier for your workshop or wherever it is you store your tools,
and you won't have a rust problem. And shut the door to keep the cat out.
Use the rotoZip or drywall saw to cut flush to the inside edge of the studs.
Cut two straight scabs at lest 2" longer than the height of the opening and
then attach them to the studs while pulling them flush to the backside of
the drywall.. That is why you make them 2" taller than the opening.
Attach the drywall to the scabs. I use 1x11/2 or 2x2 cabs depending on what
I have handy when I need one.
You can buy a cheap cutout tool at Harborfreight for about $20.
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com
I've done this for years with a jig saw. Simple as can be, just bring
the blade to its lowest point of travel (maximum cutting depth) and
mark off the cutting depth you want from the platen, then remove the
blade and break off the unwanted portion and grind the back of the
blade to a profile similar to a new blade. Reinsert blade and proceed
to cut drywall, plywood, whatever, to exact depths. When blade is
dull, save it for a pattern for another one, and mark it with a
Sharpie for the depth it cuts. For decent low priced jigsaws, check
out Harbor Freight, maybe eBay.
If your jigsaw has a dust blower you can follow a line quite well and
the cut out will fit back precisely in the hole anyway, so nearly
invisible repairs are possible.
I like to make the cut in the center of the stud bay(s) and not
struggle with that cut down the center of the stud. Much easier
cutting, much faster with almost any tool. When it is repair
time, screw a scrap metal stud or 1x along the cut drywall edges
and screw in the replacement piece. You can even go the next
level with a butt board type install that pulls the butt joint
down where it finishes much like a taper joint. Some Level 5
drywallers are going to this system on new work.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
Well, I'm no pro, but I'll jump in anyway-
No good way if you want to reuse the cut-out section for a patch. I
usually scrounge a hunk of rock to patch with, then cut a hole in the
center of the area to have something to grab. Use a straightedge and a
sharp utility knife or carpet knife to score away at your edge lines
very carefully. Idea is to not crumble the cut edge of the drywall NOT
being removed, so you can get a clean joint. Take your time and make
lots of passes, changing blades as needed. At a certain point, you will
be able to grip to open side and snap it off.
Alternative method for impatient people like me- cut the drywall flush
with the studs, using a drywall hand saw. (power saws tend to cause nail
pops.) Screw 2x3 cleats to the exposed side of the stud, and screw your
patch to those.
I'm not a professional, but I've done this with a normal utility knife
-- just start scoring deeper and deeper until you get through the
depth of the drywall. If I had dozens of these to cut, I'd get a
rotozip, but one or two will only take 5 minutes to do by hand.
With JUST one I would just draw it out with a level and a pencil and cut it
with a utility knife with a NEW blade ....Just keep scoring it till it pops
thru.....Use scabs on the studs or a piece of strapping screwed to the back
of the sheetrock on the wall to put it back...If you do screw a piece of
strapping to the back of the sheetrock be carefull the screws pop through
the strapping or piece of 1X and bite you if your not paying
Forget about an electric tool unless you are willing to deal with a
big mess. Use a stud finder to locate the edges of the studs and
mark these with a pencil. Use a utility knife with a new blade to cut
between the lines. This will take more time than an electric tool,
but you'll get a narrower gap with the utility knife and perhaps a
faster repair time.
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