Cutting a 55 Gallon Drum

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air-powered cold chisel?
The guy that mentioned the giant can opener was right- that is how people in the business do it. Might call around to local rental places and see if they have that tool in their library. Don't know what the proper name is, but if you describe the situation, it should ring a bell for them. The rentall place will have electric chisels.
aem sends...
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snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net says...

the name you're looking for is drum deheader.
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EXT wrote:

Same here. Doesn't take very long either. Seems like everybody ignores the simple solution for the 'more power' methods.
Harry K
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Air chisel with v shaped blade for cutting sheetmetal. Leave a lip you can bend downward. Don't cut off the top ring, or the barrell will lose a lot of its rigidity.
Steve
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Air powered grinder with cut-off disc. Or air-powered shears like auto body workers use to cut bodywork. No electricity to electrocute you.
--
Jim Yanik
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On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 17:23:57 -0500, Barry

Saw this method used in a third world salvage yard. Grab a comfortable length of car suspension spring, probably 24 inches long. Cut one end at 45 deg or thereabouts and sharpen that. Hold the other end of the spring and use a hammer to hit the end with the sharp edge to cut whatever part of the steel barrel you want. Those guys were removing barrel lids and cutting windows on the barrel's sides like there was no tomorrow.
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Sawzall (with the metal blade of course) to finish cutting it.
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On Thu, 3 Nov 2005 07:59:00 +0000 (UTC), Jonathan Grobe

Empty the barrel. Pour in 1/4 cup of gasoline. dig deep hole. roll barrel around a while. run long fuse from barrel to ditch. Hide in hole, check for air-traffic, light fuse. Hunt around the neighborhood for the barrel. Hide from the BATF, who will charge you with constructing an incendiary/explosive device.
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Barry wrote:

For a better burning barrel, cut *both* ends out in a manner suggested by others. Set the remaining cylinder on a grate (the heavier the better) supported by concrete blocks or such. This will allow more air to get to your fire providing more complete combustion and less ashes.
Steve 41N
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Sounds better. One of my neighbors made a "grate" by pushing several rebars through holes near the bottom. A bottomless drum on a concrete block U would get lots of airflow, and it would be easy to shovel ashes out.
Nick
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Indeed it does burn better. Load it with trash, shove a few crumpled sheets of newspaper under it and stand back. Will go like a blow torch. Been doing it since 1978. Barrels don't last as long though.
Harry K
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It's amazing to me that at a time when we are all paying big bucks to try to clean the air, there are still places that allow this kind of burning to go on. How many cars do you think it takes to equal the pollution put out by one trash burning drum?
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I give up. How many?

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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Who said anything about burn barrels being allowed??
Harry K
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This is a metal 55 gallon drum? Very often those have a lid that you can remove. There will be a band around the top (similar to a hose clamp) which you can loosen and then take off, allowing the lid to be taken off. Otherwise, you can just cut it with a jigsaw. Drill a pilot hole and start from there. The metal is fairly thin.
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Barry wrote:

I use a small air hammer. There is a special chisel that has a notch in it for cutting sheet metal. I just cut around the inside edge of the top. Works fast and with a much smaller chance of any kind of ignition and makes a nice clean edge if you stay close to the bead. Filling it with water helps prevent fire, holds the barrel in place and helps muffle the sound.
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Even easier, less tools - get a rag soaked in methylated spirits, toss it in & run, then angle grind the top off...

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I'd use a reciprocating saw with a metal blade. And ear muffs :-) But you'll be through that in a few minutes.

--
--Marc


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