commode flapper issue continues!!

Ok, this one is getting to be a real pita! Have been at it for 3 weeks. Started getting occasional running of commode a month ago, presumably due to leaky flapper. Replaced flapper, still running, so replaced both fill and flush valves. For fill, went with Fluidmaster plastic; for flush a Douglas brass valve. I decided at the time to try using the ball and rods for flush valve seal instead of flapper. In one case, I was able to get a fairly good seal, but the darned rod would want to stick sometimes after flushing and wouldn't seal the valve. Tried readjusting alignment of rod, but still would occasionally stick. So, getting fed up yesterday, I decided to go with a Korky flapper of the kind that slides down over the brass overflow tube.
Despite all efforts, which has included so far, continual adjusting and readjusting of ball alignment, a "reseating" kit for the flush valve, and now switching to a Korky flapper, I am still seeing about 1/2 inch of water loss over an 8 hour period. This isn't enough to trigger the fill valve, but if I went away for a day it certainly would be.
I'd appreciate any ideas at this point. I'm about pulling my hair out on this one. The best seal I seemed to have was with the ball seal but I couldn't get the rod to stop sticking going down sometimes. I even added more weight to the rod and readjusted the rod guide, but to no avail. I would have thought going back to the traditional flapper would have solved all of this, but it hasn't.
Any ideas would be welcome. I never thought I'd have this much trouble getting a proper seal at the flush valve seat!
Bill
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On Sun, 20 Dec 2015 08:53:08 -0500, Bill Baxter
Are you the same poster who was using food coloring to indicate a leak? If you are, why no mention of it this time? Maybe you're just losing it to evaporation.
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wrote:

Check that bowl refill tube has airgap above water full level to prevent siphon. If this is ok, you may have a leak in the flush valve tank assembly seal where it leaves the tank. Dye in tank will not show a bowl refill tube siphon but will show a flush valve assembly leak. HTH
--
Mr.E

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Should have said "will not always show" but some type valves do show dye on a drip siphon.
--
Mr.E

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Mr.E wrote:

Could catch the moment water is leaking? Exercise(test) all moving parts after emptying the tank?
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That tube problem got me.
Greg
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On Sun, 20 Dec 2015 08:53:08 -0500, Bill Baxter

You might want to start over with OEM parts and the factory setup. I had a kohler one piece that was never right until I put all kohler parts in it and had a tech tell me how many links on the chain you had to hook
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On Sun, 20 Dec 2015 17:33:39 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

After reading this thread, I think before the OP wastes yet more money on parts, it's time to CALL A PLUMBER!
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On Sun, 20 Dec 2015 16:50:11 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moc wrote:

Why a plumber? The shit is going down the pipe and the water is coming to fill the tank. He needs tech rep who knows about that toilet ... and he is probably on line.
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On 12/20/2015 6:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

May be time for a new toilet it it is older. Comfort height is nice.
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I had a toilet that was a constant problem. Not only flushing issues, but it seemed to back up far too often and no amount of snaking it would help. One day I decided I had enough, and bought a new toilet. Problem solved!
Toilets are not complicated like cars or electronics, but some of them seem to just "wear out" over time, and no matter how many parts are replaced they remain a pain in the ass. Life is too short to waste hours screwing with a bad toilet, when a new toilet is not all the costly. From what the OP said, he probably already spent half the cost of a new toilet on flappers and other parts, and that dont include his time....
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My bet is this is a "new" toilet. At least since the government started mandating standards
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On 12/20/2015 9:49 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

The newest ones work well now, not like the first edition.
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I've been happy with my newer "low flush" toilet. But I had one of those "early ones" and it was horrid.
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On 12/20/2015 7:53 AM, Bill Baxter wrote:

I'm by no means good at fixing anything like this, but my husband talks about similar issues a lot and has fixed similar issues.
My first and only idea is the area where your trying to get the seal is slightly pitted somewhere, and won't seal because of where it's pitted. Maybe it can be sanded down where the seal is supposed to be at? Is that possible to do? Like someone would put a bondo on a car and sand it down to smooth it out, put some material around the hole, let it dry, sand it down and then it might make a seal?
--
Maggie

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