> I would like to add a attachment to this valve so I could use the cold
> water attached to my garden hose. Is this possible and how? Preferably
> not to cut the pipe above it and below it.
Normally there's enough play in the water pipes that you can cut the
pipe in one spot; install a tee fitting and install a "sillcock" on the
middle leg of that tee.
If you are not experienced at soldering, there are fittings called
"Sharkbite" fittings that push directly onto the cut copper pipe so that
you don't need to do any soldering.
> what is a tee and faucet/bib? Sorry, but thanks
This is a copper tee:
This is a faucet/bib:
The latter goes by many names. Some people call it a sillcock, others
call it a hydrant, others call it a boiler drain valve. It's just a
valve with a male garden hose outlet so that you can attach a garden
hose to it.
However, you said:
- I would like to add a attachment to this valve so I could use the
cold water attached to my garden hose. Is this possible and how?
Preferably not to cut the pipe above it and below it.-
I presumed you wanted to add a valve to which you can connect a garden
hose, but on rereading your post, you're saying you already have a valve
in place and want to modify it with an attachment so that you can
connect a garden hose to it.
If you already have a valve in place, but there is no place to connect a
garden hose to it, then you'd need to add a tee, and connect a
faucet/bib to that tee.
On Thursday, August 29, 2013 7:44:57 PM UTC-4, nestork wrote:
The valve I am talking about is the cold water inlet valve. Yes, I could at
tach the hose to a washer , but there would be too many curves to get a goo
d flow. I would rather have a straight flow if possible. The faucet/bib is
what i would like to have, but i am not that handy to install a tee first.
Is it possible to remove the 'wheel' of that inlet cold water valve and scr
ew this into it bypassing the tee installation?
The latter goes by many names. Some people call it a sillcock, others
No, and you want to leave that valve in place to simplify installation
of a new water heater if/when that time comes. In fact I like to put a
valve on the outlet as well, that way you don't have to drain down the
whole house just to install a WH.
You're going to have to cut a pipe and splice in a tee/valve to do what
you want to do, but it's not the end of the world. Don't worry about
the elbows restricting flow, that's a 3/4" pipe, and the flow is not
going to be significantly limited by a single 90.
If you're messing about in that area, do you have a humidifier and does
it do an adequate job of humidifying in the winter? One thing you could
do while you have the system drained is to tee it into the hot water
outlet from the heater, the hot water to the humidifier will evaporate
faster than the cold water that is usually used.
On Friday, August 30, 2013 9:08:13 AM UTC-4, Nate Nagel wrote:
More importantly, to be able to shut it off if it springs a
leak, without shutting off water to the whole house while
waiting to get a new WH.
In fact I like to put a
IDK, it could be.
Might be better to call a pro. I'm also wondering
about if the location even makes sense, ie there might
be a better location, more convenient, etc that you
could do with about the same work. I can't recall
ever seeing a garden hose bibb located on the
cold water intake line of a water heater.
It sounds to me like the OP wants to make the installation as easy as
possible, i.e. one fitting in an already exposed run of pipe.
If everything after the WH goes up into a finished space, it might be
difficult to tap in anywhere else, especially if he doesn't even want to
cut that one pipe.
That said, I'd still look into the PRV situation since the OP seems to be
concerned about too many turns in the hose reducing the pressure. Tap in
before the PRV and pressure probably won't be an issue.
On Friday, August 30, 2013 8:49:42 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
What are you doing that the single-digit-% reduction in flow from a few curves in the hose is THAT critical?
You would need to be running hundreds of feet of hose before you'd start noticing any reduction in pressure/flow due to losses from the hose not being perfectly straight.
In fact, the losses in the TEE are more significant than anything caused by the hose.
...and, as I said in an earlier post, if he has a PRV, the loss from that
device is going to have the greatest impact, by far.
If the OP is worried about pressure, and if he has a PRV, he really should
consider Tee'ing in before the PRV. I "moved" my back yard spigot from
after the PRV to before it and the wife was quite happy with the results.
When even she, the most non-technical person I know, noticed the difference
the first time she watered the gardens, you know that there was a vast
improvement in the pressure.
Years ago, I took some fire protection courses. We
learned that globe valve equals about 70 feet of
pipe, angle valve is 45, and ball valve or gate
valve are nearly no added resistance. So, I'd
worry more about type of valve, rather than a
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On 8/30/2013 10:36 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
inlet valve. Yes, I could attach the hose to a washer ,
but there would be too many curves to get a good flow.
I would rather have a straight flow if possible.
in flow from a few curves in the hose is THAT critical?
before you'd start noticing any reduction in pressure/
flow due to losses from the hose not being perfectly
yes, a ball valve with a 3/4" NPT to GHT adapter is the ideal solution -
as it'll last longer than the washer in a boiler drain as well.
However, if you use one, I would get a brass GHT cap for the outlet,
preferably on a chain if you can find one, to cap off the opening when
not in use. All it takes is a misplaced elbow to take a quarter turn
ball valve from shut to WFO.
On Thursday, August 29, 2013 6:53:37 PM UTC-4, novel wrote:
Google is your friend. Just google "copper tee", "hose bibb".
Also, I doubt that the copper water pipe coming into the WH is
1". 3/4" would be more common. Basically you're going to have
to do what you don't want to do, cut the pipe, then solder in the
appropriate new stuff, eg a tee, adaptor, and hose bibb. I'd probably put
the bibb somewhere better located though, so that if it drips,
someone opens it, etc it's not pouring down on the WH.
Dont SOLDER lines anywhere close to water heater!! the cold water inlet dip tube are plastic and can melt ........
far better to install a valve far from the heater......
lines and valves are cheap, water heaters cost far more, and if a tank is older disturbing the lines can cause a leak, in which case your far better off to just replace the tank
bob haller;3114258 Wrote:
> Dont SOLDER lines anywhere close to water heater!! the cold water inlet
> dip tube are plastic and can melt ........
> is older disturbing the lines can cause a leak, in which case your far
> better off to just replace the tank
Anything more than 12 inches away from the tank shouldn't be a problem,
Bob. If it's a concern, a person could just wrap a wet rag around the
pipe between the tank and where the soldering is being done. As long as
the copper pipe is wet on the outside, it can't get any hotter than 212
Good soldering practice involves heating the joint you want to solder
QUICKLY with the torch burning like crazy. That's because the longer
you're heating a joint, the warmer the surrounding joints will get, and
the greater the possibility that a neighboring joint is gonna melt or
even come apart on you. And, the longer you're heating a joint, the
greater the liklihood that you're going to boil off all the flux inside
the joint so that it doesn't take solder. In fact, some torch heads
have TWO mixing tubes to heat joints twice as fast and get them twice as
hot for brazing refrigeration tubing:
What does happen a lot when you do anything with a water heater is
sediment on the inside of the hot water supply piping loosening up and
causing your hot water to turn yellow or even brown when you first turn
on the water after replacing the water heater. If you have cast iron
hot water supply piping, it's common to have your faucet aerators
getting clogged up with sediment loosened up from the inside of the hot
water supply pipes. Whenever faucets stop working properly immediately
after replacing the hot water heater, check that the faucet spout
aerators aren't clogged up with stuff.
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