Today, I went logging. Took four freshly sharpened chains. First one worked fine, but hit a rock. Changed it. On the tooth, towards the center, there is a v shaped piece of metal that rides in the bar track. Every little end had a burr of metal on it that kept it from going into the track. They were plainly visible.
I am taking them back to the sharpener. One of the guys said he had gotten them like that, too, and he just took a flat file and cleaned them up. Well, I didn't pay to do it myself, so I'm taking mine back.
These were not installed backwards, ran for a while, then had the problem, nothing like that. You couldn't get the friggin teeth into the bar groove.
There's a good chance your sharpener will blame it on your sprocket ... and he is probably correct. Most reputable sharpeners check for those burrs before returning your chain, and if they weren't there when they went out the door, your saw probably caused it.
Do all the chains have the same burr, or only the ones that you actually used? I must say, having sharpened chain saws, that I have a hard time understanding how a chain, sharpened off the saw, could get burrs on the back sides.
It is so easy to do yourself, a simple correct diameter stone in a Dremel-like tool and 5 minutes per chain and you are done. Much easier than even having to take the chain off the saw, certainly faster than taking it somewhere to be sharpened.
It must suck to have your lack of reading comprehension. The sprocket is new, AND YOU CANNOT EVEN GET EITHER OF THE TWO CHAINS IN QUESTION TO GO INTO THE GROOVE. The chains were in a plastic bag from when I picked them up until I attempted to install them on the saw bar. Two have burrs, the other works just fine.
Did you get it that time, Bunkie? How can I run it if I can't get it on the bar?
Do all the chains have the same burr, or only the ones that you actually used? I must say, having sharpened chain saws, that I have a hard time understanding how a chain, sharpened off the saw, could get burrs on the back sides.
It is so easy to do yourself, a simple correct diameter stone in a Dremel-like tool and 5 minutes per chain and you are done. Much easier than even having to take the chain off the saw, certainly faster than taking it somewhere to be sharpened.
This was a hurry up job. I didn't have the time to sharpen them. But after this, I think I will investigate a Dremel or field sharpener
I picked the two chains up, having three of them sharpened. The first went on fine and worked. The next two would not go on the bar. The burrs seem not to be on every tooth. The one chain worked fine, and was just starting to dull, but got through the work when I found out the other two were unusable.
I paid for something I did not get. I'll take these back with chain saw and see what they say.
I still do that with my mac. Small round stone in a dremel. Free hand. Takes about 10 iminutes. Every couple sharpenings you need to take a little off the guides in front of each blade.
In 25 years as a full time professional sharpener I cannot think of any mac= hine in he grinding shop including the automatic chain sharpeners like loro= ch and dinosaw that would cause the condition you describe. Either you ran the chain loose and burred it up by the sprocket grinding ag= ainst them or your sprockets are shot. Most sharpeners will remove the burrs because you can't fix stupid or the c= hain won't fit in the groove on the saw grinder. It's extra time due to abu= se and should incur an extra charge same as the morons who run their chains= in the dirt and then complain that the sharpener takes off too much metal.
Um, these two chains were on the saw at some point in their lives, yes?
Probably BEFORE you replaced the sprocket, riiiiight?
The burrs developed while the chains were on the saw the last time. They were caused by the old worn out sprocket.
Those burrs act like barbs on a fish hook. They will pop out of the groove but the way they're shaped they won't pop back into the groove.
Your sharpener guy should have recognized the burrs, cleaned them up, and told you that you needed to replace your sprocket. Then you could get all riteously indignant and act like a total dick to him for no reason, too.
Um, these two chains were on the saw at some point in their lives, yes?
Probably BEFORE you replaced the sprocket, riiiiight?
The burrs developed while the chains were on the saw the last time. They were caused by the old worn out sprocket.
Those burrs act like barbs on a fish hook. They will pop out of the groove but the way they're shaped they won't pop back into the groove.
Your sharpener guy should have recognized the burrs, cleaned them up, and told you that you needed to replace your sprocket. Then you could get all riteously indignant and act like a total dick to him for no reason, too.
reply:
DON'T BEAM ME UP, SCOTTY. THERE IS! INTELLIGENT LIFE HERE.
That is exactly what has happened. I did replace the bar, and have figured that the damage was done before I had the chains sharpened. But, I think that the sharpener should have caught it and fixed it, being a professional and charging me for something I did not know how to do. Not doing so indicated he was a minimum wage geek. I have since read up on it, and furthermore, will sharpen my own, as it is not rocket surgery, just past the intelligence levels of some. I do admit to previous ignorance. Stupidity is refusal to learn and grow. You can't fix stupid. Ignorance is temporary.
You are the first person to accurately hit the answer to the problem. Even the guy who said he had 25 years experience showed his lack of learning anything in those 25 years. You nailed it. Kudos, sir.
And I'm sorry for being a total dick to BOB with the gayly adorned moniker. I guess I could have just left out the key part which was that I couldn't run the chains because the burrs kept me from putting them on the saw. Maybe Bob with the gayly adorned moniker got a warm and fuzzy tickle from the abuse. Who knows? BTW, I took the Foredom and cleaned them up, and now they run fine.
We're off next week on another trip up to 10,000' elev to get three more trailers of wood, where I will learn how to set the jets. Already read that section of the manual three times, so no need to ask here.
I use a vise. I put the whole saw in it, clamp on the center of the bar, and tighten it up. Then I can rotate the chain and sharpen it with a round file. Put the brake on, sharpen, move chain, put brake on again, etc. Then spin the vise and do the other side.
A vise is a handy tool, but some like to do things differently.
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