caulk along roof drip edge and fascia board?

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. That wood wears at 10x the rate of the other siding, fascia. I need to prep and paint, but thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the fascia so water does not wik up. The shingles were trimmed almost flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the fascia board.
Thoughts?
On the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.
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Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? If secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may make the fascia last much longer. Of course you would need to colour/camouflage it.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
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The fascia is flashed about 1.5" below the shingles, leaving about 5" of fascia exposed. It could just be a bad paint job. I was wondering if I should try to caulk that flashing to fascia joint, because as-is it's going to be hard to get paint up underneath that flashing.
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.
Most any siding installing outfit can bring bending brakes and formers to the job and flash/cover the whole fascia even down around the bottom like they do for window trim. Never needs painting, sheds water, looks decent and is cheap, lasts for years. What's not to like?
Joe
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On 8/23/2011 6:18 PM, Joe wrote:

No, no, a thousand times NO! That is what they did to this place, and the wood inside the wrap is rotted in multiple spots now. You will never get a perfect or permanent seal between the wrap and the drip edge, and water WILL get in there. (Driving rains, ice dams that melt on sunny days, etc.) If your heart is set on wrapping, at least have them make it oversize, so there is a drain channel along the bottom, and form scuppers or drill weep holes every few feet.
Redoing all that properly on this place, with trex or cedar or something rot-proof, was on the list until the value of house dropped so much that upgrades had to be prioritized.
And I'll just note in passing- 'lasts for years' should mean 50-75 years, not 'the average 7 years until house changes hands'.
But having ranted all that- I don't think caulk will help, and may even hurt- if water wicks up through the wood, you want it to be able to drip back out, not pond in there above the caulk.
--
aem sends...

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Joe wrote:

Hi, Wonder why there is no eavestrough? Anyhow those metal preformed cladding material is at HD, Lowes, or Rona. Clad it and forget it.
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Not clear just wht is going on. Can you post a picture? I cannot feature a roofing job that did not have metal 'drip edge' installed under the shingles and over the edge of the plywood. That stuff sheds the water off the roof and does not 'wick up'. Any water hitting the fascia board would have to blown there. Does it have that metal drip edge?
Harry K
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