Cable question

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On Sunday, February 28, 2016 at 9:25:15 AM UTC-5, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:

Two options, both of which I use:
For the non-HD TV's in the garage, the shop, the shed, etc. I settled for whatever is available on Basic cable by just splitting the cable at the source and using some amplifiers. The digital HD versions of our local channels (x.1, etc.) are available on the Basic cable, so I can watch some shows in HD on the HD TV in my office, which works fine for sports, etc.
For my basement TV, I opted to go with TWC Whole House DVR service. This gets you one set-top box with a DVR and one set-top box without a DVR. I get the full suite of channels on both sets, but I do not have pause, rewind, etc. on the basement TV - well at least not directly. With the main DVR box, I can record up to 2 shows at the same time and also watch a DVR'd program while the other 2 shows are recording. What I will often do is begin a recording on the DVR and then access that recording on the basement TV by using the Whole House DVR service. In other words, while the main DVR box is recording the show, I am playing it back via the basement set-top box. This gives me the pause and rewind capabilities I like, especially for sports where I might want to watch a play more than once.
The Whole House DVR system is cheaper than 2 DVR's by about $15/month and for now, it suits my needs. While it would certainly be more convenient to be able to use pause and rewind without having to start the recording upstairs, I don't do it enough to warrant the extra $15/month.
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On 2/28/2016 2:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

That gives me another idea for the OP. Call the cable company and tell them you are considering an offer from Dish or DirecTv. Tell them they will give you a better setup for the two TVs you have and see what they offer.
When they raised my price I called DirecTv and got $30 off instead.
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On 2/28/2016 9:25 AM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:

You might want to try something like this combined with a device that allows you to use RF to get the remote signal back to the receiver.
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=hdmi-ec200&d=avue-hdmi-ec200-hdmi-extender-over-cat5e/6/7-%28hdmi-ec200%29&sku 5559700387
AVUE HDMI-EC200 is an HDMI extender using a single CAT5e/6/7 cable for up to 200 feet between the Sender TX and Receiver RX unit. It supports a wide spectrum of HDMI input formats that include 1080p, 1080i, 720p, 576p, 576i, 480p, and 480i at 24, 50, or 60 frames; and it also supports variety of audio formats that include DTS-HD, Dolby-trueHD, LPCM 7.1, DTS, Dolby-AC3, and DSD. Additionally, it is 3D content ready.
plus something like this:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=LRRX&d=NextGen-LRRX-Invisible-Multi-Room-Remote-Extender-Frequency-433-%28LRRX%29&q=remote%20extender
The LRRX from NextGen is the easiest and least expensive way to add RF to any remote. The secret RF transmitter is hidden in the battery compartment and takes the place of one battery while continuing to power the remote. Ultimately you will then able to use your existing remote through walls, doors, cabinets, etc.
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On 2/28/2016 3:34 PM, Steve Stone wrote:

Obviously what I suggested will not allow you to watch two different channels at the same time on two different TV's. If your receiver can output two different channels at the same time then you would be set to go.
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wrote:

There are also active (amplified) HDMI cables at monoprice.com.
And I don't know what the back of the box looks like, or if the OP is using his HDMI port already, but I think if he wants two HDMI outputs and the jacks are not already there, he'll have to buy an HDMI splitter, and the one at monoprice costs $68
If one tv is not a very large screen, and there is a co-axial output, I think he can use the hdmi for one and the co-ax for another and the fidelity will look good.
I could be wrong but I see these devices that convert to co-ax from hdmi, or from AV as intended for longer distances than one floor. Of course I'm assuming the downstairs is directly under the upstairs and maybe it's at the other end of the house. The active hdmi go up to 60 feet at almost a dollar foot. I have an active USB cable from monoprice and it works well.
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wrote:

As it says, up to 200 feet.

You can perhpas put one after another. You can do that with active USB cables, but data transfer even from a USB HDD to the computer might have some method of verification and retransimission, but maybe with video any error transmitted shows up on the picture. OTOH, how many errors are there? Maybe almost none.

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On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 09:25:08 -0500, "Kurt V. Ullman"

I do a lot of this. I don't have cable but I have an antenna and tuner in my upstairs bedroom and I have tvs in that room and 7 other rooms. The will all show the same thing at the same time**. (I really only use 4 of the 8 and only one at a time.)
If you're willing to drill a little hole in the corner of the room in the floor of the bedroom, and run some co-ax to the second tv, all you need is a little co-ax and a splitter. $2-5 or so. Almost any box has a signal big enough to make it through one splitter. (I found that if I had two splitters in a row (for a 3rd tv) I needed a signal amplifer between the first and second splitter.)
As to the remote, there is almost always a device for sale that will make your remote work in other rooms. I used to have Cricket, that stuck on to the front of the remote control and used RF to a receiver in the bedroom, where it turned it back into IR, but that didn't work so well later for some reason (now I have a duplicate remote for each floor of the house, so I would need three of the Crickets )
Then I went to Powermid. I guess those are still for sale new at X-10. It's excellent. It has a transmitter that sits on a shelf in the room with the remote tv, and a receiver that sits on a shelf where the tuner is. It has to face the IR window, and if that's not practical, they sell a little thing that plugs into the receiver with red plastic teardrop that sticks to the front of the IR window. Get the one with 3 teardrops in case you want to control 2 other things later. It's only a dollar or two more.
The remote control as I've described it is unrelated to the remote tv signal. They have a device that is bidirectional and will transmit the signal in one direction and the remote controls in the other, but it's expensive. This is more versatile also.
**I actually had a party one time and showed a rare movie with 20 people in the living room, 6 in the kitchen and 7 or 8 in the basement.

You're not going to be able to have more in two rooms than in one. But you'll still be able to record one show and watch another

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Micky wrote:

I have been using Powermid for about 10 years. I have the set top box (Verizon FiOS) in my basement office. Using a splitter, I feed the TV set in the basement and the TV set in the bedroom with whatever channel I have selected with the remote. The remote control in the bedroom sends the IR commands through the Powermid transmitter in the bedroomto the Powermid receiver in the basement. This way I can control the set top box from either the basement or the bedroom. Of course, whatever is playing in the basement is also playing in the bedroom and vice versa but that is fine since no one is in the same place at the same time.
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On Sunday, February 28, 2016 at 9:14:05 PM UTC-5, Arnie Goetchius wrote:

re: "...since no one is in the same place at the same time."
Really? You mean that all my life people having been lying to me about that "can't be in two places at one time" thing? Damn!
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On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 09:25:08 -0500, "Kurt V. Ullman"

What I said before assumed that your downstairs tv isn't "cable-ready" for the channels you want to watch, because they're encrypted and the tv tuner isn't enough. And that a box is needed.
But if you only want to watch what few and iiuc getting fewer stations are not encrypted, you can split the cable before it goes into the box upstairs and run that to the second tv, and then if there are any such channels, you'll be able to watch two different shows at the same time.
You could do both, run two cables to the downstairs, in a slightly bigger hole, with an A-B switch just before it goes into the TV,
OR
You could just run the two cables to a remote controlled A-B swith that you have in the bedroom, and you could control the A-B switch from downstairs, by buying a Powermid (It's shaped like a pyramid) or something similar, and sticking the second red teardrop to the IR window of the A-B switch. Since the A-B switch only affected downstairs, you could leave that remote control downstairs.

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