Well..... ok. Post your real name and address. Also, if you can, post a
few pics of your house and your neighborhood, so I'll be able to find it
easily. Then give me a date and time, and I'll be there.
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 17:04:34 -0600, "R. Gregg Reed"
How bout you do this. Post your phone number, not cell number. Or
email it to me. I'll call you from my home #. Make sure you turn on
caller ID and Anonymous Call Rejection. That is for you. That way I
cant hide my real name and phone number. I'll even let you pick the
date. I own the company so I can be here just about anytime you'd like
Now you game?
Sorry, but anyone who would want to fight someone because he got his
feelings hurt on usenet is a total fuckin' moron, and I don't give my
home phone number to total fuckin' morons.
Besides, you're the one that wants to fight me, not the other way
around. If I want to squash a bug I can do it here as easily as there.
So if you want to fight you need to do it my way.
and I still havent seen you or anyone else take me up on my offer.
Email me your phone number and I'll call you. Then we will both have
each others name address and phone and neither of us will be posted on
the net for all to see. It couldnt be more simple.
Ive never seen such a bunch of mouthy pussies with no balls in my
If I send you my home phone number, then you'll have a way to get my full
name and address, and you'll also have a way to call me up and harass me. I
won't have anything from you. No name, no address, no phone number, no real
email address, no nothin'. Why do you want me to take all the risks, while
you take none? I'll tell you why. Because you're a little man with a fat
head and a big mouth who insults people on usenet because you're too much
of a wimp to do it in real life.
Either that, or you're a fuckin' moron. I can't decide which. It might even
I also reread your posts. You're not very good at trading insults, are you?
Needless to say, my insults were eloquent and devastating. You sounded like
a bumbling fool. No wonder you threatened me. I'd get mad too if I was
classic signs of insecurity and an inferiority complex...when proven wrong
or embarrassed, resorts to physical threats behind the supposed veil of
I'd love to come visit. Please post your address and telephone number,
Just find physically matching 5 amp fast blow fuse and try it. 27"
analog TV ain't precision high tech stuff. If it blows again, try slow
blow type one more time and if it blows too there is something wrong
with circuitry, most likely on the power supply/regulator area.
I'd clean the dust off first.
Just a tip here....take a good look at the fuse, assuming it is glass, and
if it is very black inside I wouldn't bother replacing it since most likely
10 times the rated current flowed and there is definitely a short. If there
is just a small separation in the element then perhaps it just separated
from contraction / expansion and replacing it most likely won't continue to
do additional damage such as removing the traces from the circuit board.
Now, if it's black inside you probably have, like Tony suggested, a short in
the power supply such as the bridge or regulator. This would be very simple
and most likely cheap to repair. Haul it down to the local repair shop and
get a quote. If it's a basket case, which I doubt, you lost nothing
otherwise it will probably be a minimum shop charge. Good Luck ....Ross
see also a more technical newsgroup:
and thank you Sam Goldwasser for Notes on the Troubleshooting and
Repair of Television Sets
OK. We've found the fuse!
Now; why did it blow?
Expect 5000 more posts in this thread on the subject of whether it is safe,
or not, for a person with, presumably, limited? electronic skills and test
equipment to try and repair a, presumably colour? 27 inch TV which can have
very high (read lethal) voltages of many thousands of volts. Presuming
again, it is of the cathode ray tube type? Which under certain circumstances
can emit X.Rays!
Puzzled the OP didn't ask the original 'fuse' question on an
'Electronics/scientific' repair group!
Be careful! Hope the OP gets lucky with just replacing the fuse. But as with
anything fuses are there for reasons; which include protection of human
health, safety and property!
I don't know. The previous owner said it just quit working. No lightning
strikes, no sparks, no smoke, no crackling noises, no nothing.
I wasn't planning on doing any more than looking for the obvious. I also
made sure it was unplugged before I took the cover off, and I didn't
plug it back in until the cover was back on.
This group deals with home repair, which I thought was more appropriate
than theoretical electronics. Also, my question wasn't specifically
about repairing electronics. I just wanted some information on fuses.
And this group had ten times the number of posts as the other groups,
and I wanted a quick answer.
I replaced the fuse, and ran it a few hours last night, and about four
hours today. No problems so far.
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 13:29:21 -0600, "R. Gregg Reed"
What difference does it make? Did you get the point that you can kill
yourself even when it is unplugged?
OK, it's less likely, but did you ask how to avoid it?
You can describe a fuse in a sentence or two. Where it is used does
make a difference in what there is to say about this.
Who says the electronics group is only theoretical. The one I read is
not. And they do know more about electronics repair than the people
here. (no offense, guys. They know more than I do, too.) It would
have been a better group for this question. Far more likely to know
what 5MF means, because there are so many more people there who deal
with glass fuses.
That's good. That might be the only problem.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
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