I dont care for those crimp types, but thats what you got. I dont see
them being "less likely to fail". Assuming you have an insulated wire
crimped to the bare support wire. Remove a little insulation just before
the crimp. Take some auto jumper cables and jump across that crimp.
(with the power off). Turn power on and see if you now have a working
neutral. It would be best to tape where you removed the insulation
All that wind and it did not blow the wires enough to make contact
again. That tells you it's more than a loose connection.
If you use the jumper cables, just use either the red or the black, not
a red on one side and black on the other. I'm sure I didn't need to tell
you that! :)
On 11/05/2015 10:10 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
A single connection, sure...but there is more than the one from the barn
to the line pigtail in there and the others _in_the_same_crimp_ don't
have an issue. I'm having a hard time imagining that physically.
Actually, on inspection up close, there were apparently multiple
heads/sleeves for 2-, 3-, and 4- conductors in this system. It's about
a 3 to 3-1/2" long sleeve and there's a visible crimp on the
four-conductor one from each of the four angles and was an open-ended
die; there's a small visible nib on the open side. Those connections
appear still nearly pristine. There's a solid filler Al conductor in
the middle that prevented leaving a hole in the middle of the spliced joint.
Well, turns out we were both sorta' right and sorta' wrong! :)
When I got off the ground and up there I could then see what was hidden
from the ground--the others in that big group _are_ in the funky crimp;
the barn however is alone with a conventional split nut. From the
ground that wasn't visible at all.
Turns out that connection had been loose for quite some time and had
sufficient corrosion built up to cause the problem. Took some fine
scotchbrite pad material up w/ me and unstranded the loose end and
polished them up, did what could on outer surface of the other splice
area and used a new connector and voila! all is well.
Surely glad have the lift; a neighbor fell from a ladder and was killed
just last week in his barn/shed retrieving some things was going to
donate to fundraising auction being held for his grandson of about 5
who's been in Denver for last 2 years undergoing treatment for brain
tumor...no good deed goes unpunished, apparently. :(
Anyway, to finish this off, it was, in the end, pretty mundane having
started with my brain cramp of not thinking of the mechanical carrier
cable being the neutral--one of those "know better, just not thinking"
You finally found the problem.
Did you use that grease that's supposed to prevent corrosion?
(I dont recall the name of it).
If not, I'd tape it real well to prevent future corrosion. Rubber tape
is recommended over the common "electrical tape". Then you wrap over the
rubber tape with the common stuff to keep it fron unwrapping.
The connector being loose caused arcing which just caused more corrosion
I have the knowledge and ability to do most any electrical stuff, but I
dont have a lift. I refuse to go on a pole with a ladder. Safety is one
reason, fear of heights is the other. I'd rather pay someone to do it.
That cable is called TRIPLEX. 2 insulated, 1 bare support wire.
That support wire is very strong and I've wrecked several cutters trying
to cut it. I dont know what kind of metal they use, but it's hard to
cut. An angle grinder is probably the best cutting tool.
By the way, you said that lift weighs 12,000 lbs. Are they really that
heavy? That's 6 tons and is one huge machine..... I've never owned or
used one of them.
You might also look at the split-bolt connector. If it is copper, the
connection will corrode but if it is silver colored and has a shoe in
the slot, it is copper to al or al to al and should hold up well as long
as the differing wires are separated by the tin plated shoe.
That is what the manual says.
Where I worked we had one that would go about 60 feet and another one made
by Mark Lift that went to about 60 feet. When you get the boom out that far
at around 45 deg and around 600 pounds on them (think that is what one was
rated at) you want a lot of weight holding it down.
I have driven and used both of them lots of fun at 20 or 30 feet, but at 60
feet it gets some what shakey when moving the bucket around.
I only used them about 5 or 6 times a year, so not enough to get
comfortable while the boom is all the way out.
I thought I had a 60-footer located but it got taken off the market for
local sale, apparently. This will just reach the eaves of the barn
cupola so that to get up there I still had to set up scaffolding (took
two high) and a walkboard. I've yet to finish the very top flashing and
there were a couple of broken lightning rod globes so they've not gone
back up yet, either. I'd love to not have to get the scaffolding back
up there again...
But, when I was looking was when I still hadn't bit the bullet and done
the seal kit for the main extend and lift cylinders but finally just
took it to the Deere dealership in town we deal with all the time and
had them done. With that now done it's harder to justify the extra
I really don't know what I'd do without it around the place now any
more, though. Besides the barn, the old house is 2-story 1:1 pitch so
anything up there is also a real trick; you _can_ stay on it, but it's
spooky when younger and now it's a "no way!"...
I had my house re roofed this summer. Eight Mexicans showed up to do the
job. The pitch is almost that great, close to 45 deg. One side of the
house is only one storry off the ground,but the other side is about 25 feet
off the ground. They carried all the shingles up ( about 28 squares) by
hand. Did not use any safety ropes. They did throw a couple over the roof
and when carrying some up, might grab the rope with one hand. I was sure
one was going to roll off, but they did it without problems. Seemed to do a
good job too.
I started to go on the roof years ago, but chickened out. I am not afraid
of heights, put up a 60 foot ham radio tower doing all the tower work and
climbed up the outside of 100 foot silos at work. I just need to feel safe
on what I am standing on. I try to stay off extension ladders. Just can not
help feeling the bottom will slip.
I am afraid of heights, but I can go on a roof that's not too steep, or
will go up a ladder but 25ft is about my limit. But the ladder MUST be
against a solid wall. Round power poles are a NO-NO. When that ladder
starts to walk around the pole due to the roundness, I'm not going up
The way to keep an extension ladder from slipping on the ground is to
park a tractor or pickup truck there and put the bottom of the ladder
against the tractor loader or truck bumper. To make it even more secure,
tie it to the loader or bumper. I always do that if I'm going higher
than about 9 or 10ft.
I've had more problems with step ladders being used outdoors. I had one
on a deck with a thin layer of snow. I went on the nearly flat deck roof
to shovel off the snow. When I finished the shovelling, I steped on the
ladder, it slipped and then one of the legs bent and I went down with
that damn aluminum step ladder (11ft). I ended up in the hospital.
Luckily I was not seriously injured. I will never own another aluminum
step ladder. I'll trust a wooden one any day over aluminum.
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 06:19:36 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
There is a BIG difference between a class1 and a class2 aluminum
ladder. That said - I prefer fiberglass. A new wooden ladder is good,
but after a few decades I'd take aluminum over wood any day of the
Most of the ladders where I worked were like that. Someone in the safety
department decided that because of an electrical hazzard all of them had to
be fiberglass and had to have the heavy duty rating of a lot pounds, I
forget how much.
They had to have an inspection sticker on them that was renewed every year.
Funny thing was that we could inspect our own ladders and if they did not
have a current sticker, we could put one on.
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