Back Up Power for Refrigerator/Freezer

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On Thursday, October 10, 2013 5:36:00 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:

is down for extended periods. I need enough power to run our side-by-side refrigerator/freezer, a small fan, and charge a couple iPhones and a laptop computer. The tag on the inside of the refrigerator says Full Load Amp: 6 .5. How much more will the motor draw at startup? Do I need to size for s tartup or normal operating conditions?

ant in sizing a backup system? If so, how can I use it?

Those are the dummies that keep opening it up every hour to get something out. Then the food spoils and they still can't figure it out.

I figure out what I want to get first, before I even open the door. Then I get a small ice chest. I get ice from the freezer or some handy frozen items that can defrost and be eaten, put those in the chest, together with stuff from the fridge that will last a day or two. Then I don't open it again. That works especially well if more ice is available in nearby areas with power.

The day before Sandy, I put extra quart, gallon, etc containers of water in the freezer so it could freeze and add to the thermal mass

One good thing about those events is you finally go through the freezer and find all the stuff from 3 years ago that you didn't even know was there and most of it's probably no good anymore anyway.

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On 10/10/2013 7:16 PM, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

One time, I wrapped a Readers Digest in aluminum foil, and put in a note "25 cents to the finder of this" and put it in my parents freezer. It was almost two years before Mom handed me the note, with an expression on her face.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hmm,If you have chest freezer, upright one is less efficient but it minimizes that problem.
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if you know a storm is coming, fill the freezer with water bottles and turn the setting down to colder then usual.
Anyone know of an easy way to prevent the fridge from going into the defrost cycle when you are on backup power?
Mark
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On 10/10/2013 9:28 PM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Good question and it could be as simple as unplugging the power to the clock motor of the defrost timer in a fridge with a conventional defrost circuit. The power to the compressor goes through the timer so you may have to make a jumper. The newer electronic controls may be much more involved but you could probably still come up with a jumper for the compressor power. ^_^
TDD
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On 10/10/2013 9:44 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

If you have a well matched generator for standby power, why bother cutting it out at all?
If you must, I think that I'd grab the parts diagram, isolate the defrost heater and install a SPDT switch in line and just take it out of the line. Who cares if the timer runs or not? No draw there to speak of.
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On 10/10/2013 9:53 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

The timer will cut the compressor off when it cycles. That's a reason for stopping the clock. The timer switches the compressor off and switches the heaters on when it goes into defrost. If you could isolate the power to the clock motor you wouldn't have to worry about anything else unless the timer was already in the defrost cycle. An electronic microprocessor controlled system would be a bit more complicated but could probably be taken care of with a couple of bypass switches. ^_^
TDD
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On 10/10/2013 10:24 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

Yeah, you're correct. I didn't give that enough thought. Sometimes Occam's razor ain't all that sharp<g>
Still, consider just leaving it be and properly matching the backup generator to the task(s) at hand. It (the defrost) should not add that much load to the system.
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On 10/11/2013 7:59 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

The side by side fridge we have here at the house uses halogen lamp tubes as defrost heaters and a fellow looking in the freezer during the defrost cycle freaked when he thought the fridge was on fire. ^_^
TDD
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On 10/10/2013 10:44 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

Most refrigerators have a fairly small compressor. Would need at least a day to freeze water bottles. I'd figure two or three days, if at all possible.
Yes, it would take an adaptor or jumper. I don't consider that "easy".
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
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On 10/10/2013 10:28 PM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I've been repairing refrigerators for 15 years or so, and no. I don't know any easy way.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
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Per snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net:

I liked the suggestion about being sure to eat all the ice cream before it melted. Even so we have little gennie, I'm going to try to sell that one to the wife next time around..... -)
--
Pete Cresswell

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You are need start up or lock rotor amp. whichever may show on the unit!!!
I would like to set up a back up power system for times when city power is down for extended periods. I need enough power to run our side-by-side refrigerator/freezer, a small fan, and charge a couple iPhones and a laptop computer. The tag on the inside of the refrigerator says Full Load Amp: 6.5. How much more will the motor draw at startup? Do I need to size for startup or normal operating conditions?
This model supposedly uses 617 kw-hours/year. Is this information relevant in sizing a backup system? If so, how can I use it?
Bob Simon
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