I have a 4 year old Honda EU2000i with about 200 hours of use. I have done
the proper maintenance on it.
I leave it with gas and gas stabilizer, and start it up for 5 minutes once a
month. When it gets hard to start I change the gas; that is about once a
Tonight we had 2 brief power losses, and since it is 5 degrees out, I
thought it would be a good idea to warm up the generator. It wouldn't
start. I brought it in the house for a half hour, but that didn't help. I
changed the gas; that did the trick. As I understand it, the most volatile
parts of the gas evaporate, leaving something behind that is inadequate to
start the engine; is that correct? Is there anything I could add to the old
gas to revive it? Everything worked out fine (no outage so far, and the
generator finally started) but I would hate to have to do this in the dark
during a real outage. (I mean, besides changing the gas more often...)
Ether? I'm not a huge fan of the magic juice, but if I needed to get
the generator started, it would come out quickly. Bonus!, you could
use up the tired gas, once it was started, I'll bet it would run on it
Same here on the ether.
I have a lawn mower that runs fine, but it will never start without a
jolt of ether first (known as starting fluid, in an aerosol can. Some
cans say they include "top cylinder lubricant" and they sell for the
When I had a '67 Pontiac, before fuel injection and electronic
ignition, it was hard to start in the winter. I ran some small
diameter aquarium tubing from the glove box through the fire wall to
the carburetor. I took the small stiff tube that fits into the top of
some aerosol can buttons, and I cut it in 2 pieces, part on the can,
to which I attached the hose, and part in the carb end of the hose, to
make it come out as a spray and not a dribble. Then when it was cold
out, I only had to open the glove box and spray some ether and the car
started every time, for more than 2 winters. Easy to do. No more
opening the hood.
It's OK to spray ether on the air filter. So that only vapor goes
into the cylinder.
If you spray ether into the cylinder, it dries out the cylinder
wall, and the generator becomes a very expensive chunk of scrap.
My Dad had this done for him, or done to him, by a "helpful"
In the box with my generator, I have a quart of Castrol 10W30 oil
(Castrol is my favorite brand). And a spray can of ether.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
b-12 carb cleaner makes a good starting fluid that's not quite as volatile
as starting fluid. Try pulling the plug, warm it over your stove burner or
with a propane torch, pull the engine through several times with the plug
out, then stick the hot plug back in. Try it several times without the
choke, then go back to the choke if necessary.
"Toller" < snipped-for-privacy@Yahoo.com> wrote in message
If you are using real stabilizer and if you are replacing the gas at
least once a year you should be fine, I think for your use I would switch
out the gas every six months..
The usual problem with old gas is not evaporation. Gasoline is usually
stored in air and gasoline proof containers. The problem is polymerization.
where the smaller molecule combine into larger ones.
You can burn that old gas in your car, but don't add a couple of gallons
to an almost empty tank. Fill it almost up and add about a half gallon at a
time. It will not hurt your car.
My emergency generator is alowed to run dry and the tank left empty
waiting for the next use. I keep a small gas can near it, and that
gets used for the lawnmowers and such. The gas is usualy less than a
Since they went in my area to ethanol in the gas, I have had problems
with gas stabilizers in the snowthrowers and lawnmowers. I now run
everything dry after draining the tanks, and store it that way. I
havent had a problem the last two winters. The emergency generator is
moved inside an attached garage if a major storm is expected, so it
is above freezing . We wheel it out onto a covered patio when
I'm not sure you can revive flat gas. But, who knows?
I like name brand gas. Mobil seems to last a bit longer than the
discount brands. Stabil and Pri G are supposed to help. Do they?
I don't know for sure.
A hearty congratulations for running your generator every month.
I know I should, but I do not. I know what you mean about doing
this in the dark. Hint: Buy a battery power head lamp. Worth
every penny when you are working and it's dark and you need to
see. I own and use several strap on head lamps.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
Try keeping a can of WD40 near the generator. When it won't start,
remove the air filter and spray the WD40 directly into the carburetor
throat. Full choke and it should start, leave the choke on until the
engine starts to flood out, and it should continue to run after that.
The WD40 will not "wash away" the oil on the cylinder wall as badly as
will ether or starting fluid. Also, the WD is slightly oily, helping
replace any oil it does displace. Lastly, even the reformulated WD40 is
highly flammable, it just doesn't have the flammable gas propellants any
more. Where they used to use butane and propane, they now use carbon
The fuel stabilizer isn't the problem, the evaporation in the carburetor
itself most likely is the problem. The gas in the bowl and main jet dry
up leaving a film of varnish (and even stabilizer). Running the engine
regularly will keep this film flushed out, but starting it and then
shutting it off right away will in turn foul the spark plug, making it
hard to start for different reasons. Start the engine and run it for at
least 10 to 15 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
Hondas have always had precise carburetors, and although they don't
normally require warm up on choke, they will still do better on "old"
fuel if given a chance to warm up on part choke. Other engines may
require more or less choke, depending on the condition of the carb,
engine overall, and fuel.
WD40 is not even close to working like starting fluid and in many cases
will make things WORSE. (Speaking from 29+ years experience in vehicle
and mobile equipment maintenance) Where it CAN be helpful is hard/no
start conditions resulting from wet or worn ignition system components
such as spark plug wires, distributor caps, and ignition coils. Spraying
it on the exterior of these items will displace water and help insulate
them, often enabling an engine to start. BTW the 'WD' stands for "Water
Contentment makes poor men rich. Discontent makes rich men poor.
The problem is the gas refineries. When I was a kid (over 3 decades
ago), gas would last forever. We never had these problems with it and
never added stabilizer. Today we are paying 5 to 10 times what gas
cost back then, and it's junk. There is not as many BTUs per gallon,
the octane and power are both lower, and the stuff is so poorly made
that it goes bad in short time. We all need to begin contacting the
oil companies and complaining until something is done about the
I also have a Honda EU2000i. It's about 8 months old. Every couple of
months or so, I pour a little bit of gas in the tank and start it and
let it run completely dry (usually about 1/2 to 1 hour). I use gas
with double the amount of recommended stabilizer in it.
To start the EU2000i, I pour a little bit of gas in the tank and turn
the choke and fuel valve on. Then I pull on the starter rope VERY
GENTLY and fairly slowly about 8 to 10 times and it always fires right
up. It's not a problem. It's very easy. Just don't get rough with it.
I use the same gasoline that I use for my lawnmower so it never gets
to old, maybe 6 months old or so at the most. If it gets older than
that, I pour it into my car.
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