Another question RE tiling a shower

Sorry forgot to ask:
Since I'm using a shower pan, how close does the backerboard come in contact with the rim of the pan? Also, what do I use to fur the backerboard since the lip of the showerpan is about 1/8"? Do I use felt strips?
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smith snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Needs to overlap the flange a little. As for furring, you should install drywall on the studs first, then the backer over that.
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Home Depot sells furring strips. No need to drywall.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Depends upon the backer. For the minimal expense, it's better to drywall first as it makes for a much stiffer wall when the backer's installed.
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Interesting ideas with the sheetrock first then the backer board over it....
Only problem with that may be the gap that you get when you go from the shower area to the outside the shower area. Bullnose tile doesnt cover a 1/2" transition.
What I did was to greenboard the bathroom and use wonderboard in the shower area. (hardiboard works real nice too and is cutable with a knife)
Behind the wonderboard (between the studs and the wonderboard) I used a felt paper (roofing paper) as a water barrier. That paper extended the entire length all the way down to the pan. I didnt entirely overlap the wonderboard over the lips of the pan, but it was real close.
Tom
One more thing, make sure those walls are flat and square. When you are in the tiling process it will make the job go much easier. If the walls arent right the job will be much more difficult.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

It's not an idea. It's an accepted substrate installation worldwide.

Standard radius bullnose tile *is* made to wrap over a 1/2" substrate. However some of the radius tile varies slightly between mfger's. However there are methods to make it work over a 1/2" substrate. One is to simply carve a little off of the edge. Same method applies with mortar. As for the joint between the tile and wall (what you call a problem), it is grouted.
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Oh please, in many parts of the world people just use greenboard and tile right over that. Some cases it fails, in others it lasts for decades.
Many showers that I have seen have a completely flat transition from the shower area to the rest of the wall. (whether it was going from tile to tile or tile to sheetrock. You CANNOT have a nice flat wall when using sheetrock under wonderboard.
Wonderboard in itself isnt waterproof either. That's why I would recommend felt paper under it between the wonderboard and the studs. Putting and leaving sheetrock under it is just leaving a nice place for water to get trapped and mold to grow.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Unacceptable.
That reply makes no sense.

Your replies prove that you are a clueless novice attempting to give advice about a subject you know little to nothing about. Your 'tude about it shows you think you know it all. Your type never really learns anything.
-end of subject-
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We have a non-std (like 28") shower and like 30yrs ago my uncle stuck his hand behind it and found out the walls don't even have studs holding them.. so if you just lean on the wall.. the tile joints crack and let the water out.. one of our neighbors, rest her soul, fell thru the floor.. like 100 houses (built 1965) in our neighborhood all have the same problem.. then we have bad plumbing joints (see earlier post).. all the fiberglas showers are 30" or larger.. really incredible what these builders got away with.. and that worse things haven't happened.. talk to my realtor friends and they think only in term of superficials.. which is why folks should be scared of ne wlaws allowing non-engineers to do home inspections
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