After flushing toilet, it fills again, it leaks water until I open lid and pull that ball little up


Guys,
Recently my toilet chain was broken, I got new chain and fixed it, since then After flushing toilet, it fills that tank again, then it leaks water until I open lid and pull that ball upwards littelbit, how to fix this?. I want to Home depot, he was telling, I have to replace the whole tank, but issue is, as soon as I open lid and pull that rod (with ball) upward littlebit, then water leak stops, can somebody suggest me what to do, how to fix this?. Thanks in advance.
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Avoid Home Depot. No reason to replace the tank, the guy is an idiot.
Are you talking about the float ball? There is usually an adjustment screw to set the level. Look where the rod is attached. Or you just bend the rod down a bit.
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GS wrote:

Might simply bend rod down a little to raise level that float works at. Washer seal may also need cleaning of particles that sometimes breaks seal.
Frank
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Every time I've tried bending the rod on a ball cock, it turns on the threads and makes the problem worse. Which is why I have a procedure for toilets; gut it and change everything inside to plastic like Fluidmaster.
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Eric in North TX wrote:

Someone else said there may be a screw adjustment, but, I'm also with you on the Fluidmaster.
Frank
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==============================================================Are you sure that there is some slack in the chain when it is at rest ??? My daughter had a similar problem. The water would not shut off because the flapper was under tension from the tight chain, and it leaked just enough to keep the water from shutting off unless you pulled up on the valve. If you did that, the water shut off, but a minute or two later, it started running again as enough water went into the bowl to lower the level in the tank. Check to make sure that there is some slack in that chain you replaced.
RON
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GS wrote:

http://www.toiletology.com /
Jeff
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You said "It leaks down". I assume you have a old fashioned rubber flapper type flush valve. You probable disturbed its natural seating when you replaced the chain. Hence the leak.
Pulling up on the float just closes the fill valve but as long as you " leak by" it will open again. Two things will correct the problem.
The lazy way: Remove the flapper and clean the crud off of it and the seat and then replace. The best way: Replace the flapper with a quality red flapper by Korky or some other manufacturer that will give it a five year warranty. All flappers are not created equal. Stick with a quality one. Remember to clean the seat before you install the new flapper.
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Sounds like it isn't cutting off soon enough. You need to adjust the position of the ball (people often do that by bending the rod).
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While you're fixing the leak, Fluidmaster 400LS Leak Sentry Pro Fill Valve has a feature that will prevent the water from running again after it once fills. It's a bear to adjust that feature when you install it, but once done, it works like this: If your tank fills, then leaks out, the tank won't fill any more (run) until you push the handle. That tips you off that something's wrong inside. Fix the leaky whatever, then press the handle again to flush. It cost me less than $10 at Home Depot. I haven't seen it anywhere else, including Wal-mart.
GS wrote:

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wrote:

I got one at Lowe's, although it's model 401LG.

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1. Sometimes it's simply a misadjusted float level, and the adjust screw (or bend-the-float-arm method) work. 2. Sometimes a new chain is a little longer, and when at rest, part of it is getting sucked into the water exit, keeping the flapper open, and water continues to exit (and thus trigger the fill valve.) Check that. 3. Sometimes the floats get corrupted, perhaps from using chlorine tablets which eat away at their plastic or rubber. You can buy a replacement float to fix that. 4. If none of the above help, then it likely is the fill valve assembly, the vertical structure that looks like an airport conning tower. You can still buy the older brass ones, or you can switch to the plastic ones. BUT BEWARE; particularly if you have hard water like I do, the Fluidmaster plastic ones fail every 6 or 7 years- PITA. The replacement of the fill assmebly is annoying or worse (but DIY saves yourself $150 from the plumber: read the instructions, turn off water valve, drain the tank, drain the tank MORE, borrow your wife's turkey baster to DRAIN MORE, loosen the appropriate attachment fittings at the water inlet, and where valve seats on ceramic toilet, remove, watch water you DIDN'T drain flow over the floor, install new valve, being careful to use the right washers depending on your water inlet type. The Fluidmaster instructions are quite good. 5. The self-cleaning Chlorine Tablets are enemies of these rubber and plastic systems; avoid.
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It is called a "Shop-Vac" look into it.
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Is your chain too long, and blocking the flapper?
later,
tom @ www.FindMeShelter.com
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