How to adjust oil furnace electrodes and flame? - Page 4

On Nov 11, 3:43 pm, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Thanks for clearing up what most of us already know.   Of course that
has zero to do with the issue.   I provided you with many state EPA
sites that outline the procedure for homeowners to use when removing
asbestos.   Any thinking person will realize that these EPA depts are
not going to post detailed procedures for residents to follow if
federal law makes it illegal for a homeowner to remove asbestos.
Instead, they would simply post that per federal law, it's illegal and
that would be the end of the story.

And once again, if it's illegal, then just provide the link to the
federal law/regulation that states that.   I've provided links that
show the DIY procedure for various states.   Why can't you?   Oh,
that's right, because it doesn't exist.

On Wed, 12 Nov 2008 04:43:32 -0800 (PST), trader4@optonline.net wrote:


quoted text -

What are you arguing with me for? I agree with you - gee, some guys
can't read, or what?

http://www.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/ashome.html#dosdonts

On Nov 11, 9:23 am, sa...@dog.com wrote:

 Yet,

As usual, just more FUD.   Of course the answer to that is yes.   No
one here suggested that a homeowner that removes asbestos doesn't have
to follow the applicable regulations.   That's why states have
websites that outline the correct procedure for DIY.  But that wasn't
the issue now, was it?    The issue was that some of you made the
claim that it's illegal for a homeowner to remove asbestos in their
own home.

I provided you the links to Washington, Delaware, Utah, NJ, etc, where
they outline the procedure for homeowners.  Certainly these state EPA
organizations are aware of federal regulations and aren't going to
outline a procedure for their DIY residents to follow for asbestos
removal if it's illegal for homeowners under federal law to do so.

So either post the reference to the federal law/regulation to back up
your claim, or at least stop spewing nonsense.   And the scary thing
is, some of you guys actually claim to be certified.   I wonder what
else you know so much about that is all wrong.

Don Ocean wrote:

As well as ANYONE who enters the confined space and becomes sick years
later.  And the worst is your homeowners insurance won't cover you either.
Most liability insurance underwriters are excluding asbestos related
lawsuits unless you purchase a specific policy for asbestos abatement.

rancid, you're such a fool


--
Zyp

Instead of paying an arm for asbestos removal you can do it safely,
you just soak it with a hose until its completely wet and keep area
wet, its of no harm wet.

Yes that's a brilliant idea!...NOT. As if playing at being an oil burner
mechanic with no tools or training isn't bad enough now you suggest that he
becomes an instant asbestos abatement technician. All that training and
PPE(personal protective equipment) is so unnecessary. Just hose it down and
put it in the trash can. All DIY'ers should get into asbestos removal! Maybe
next he could try his hand at elevator repair or helicopter maintenance.
It's not rocket surgery after all.

kool wrote:

Funny you mention Rocket surgery, I've met a Rocket Scientist and I'm not so
sure of their mechanical ability either.

--
Zyp

Zyp wrote:

Oh, I don't know about that. Even their failures go boom. How can you
condemn a sport that leaves very little evidence that it was a failure?

Don Ocean wrote:

Ok Don;

You are right about the evidence.  Although, that last little Columbia
problem left plenty of evidence.

--
Zyp

Zyp wrote:

That was coming down. The real kaboom sending it up was a booming
success. ;-p

mr logic316 , obviously you've never spoken to a person with a real
education and vocabulary , don't bother coming back with one of your
semi-literate 'clever' comebacks , i'm done with you , regards ,
Jack

Logic316 posted for all of us...


Oh, like high CO coming out?
--
Tekkie - I approve this advertisement/statement/utterance.

I have two CO detectors in the house, as well as a big old brick chimney
with a strong draft. This boiler and chimney were originally designed for
burning coal, so it operates on a draft system that is more than capable of
venting out excess fumes. Besides, with oil heat you're going to smell the
unburnt hydrocarbons long before the CO becomes a problem, that's why oil is
relatively much more safe than natural gas. But I guess you knew that,
right?

- Logic316


"We are ready for any unforeseen event that may or may not occur."
 -- Vice President Al Gore, 9/22/97

Actually, your wrong on all counts... but I guess you knew that and are just
trying to stir the pot.

On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 11:01:48 -0400, "Logic316"


Your logic on this one Logic again continues to amaze me.
You have two CO detectors and thats what you are banking you and your
familys life on? You need to learn what those $30-$40 CO detectors
really do and do detect.
Read here www.coexperts.com
Nope, I have nothing to do with them and I really dont care if you
read it or purchase one. Its just good info.
The fact that you think you are going to smell unburnt hydrocarbons
before any CO becomes a problem is just plain scary.
What happens at 2AM when you are in a sound sleep on a 0 degree night
and your boiler soots up? Have you actually ever seen how fast a
boiler and chimney can plug when an oil burner futzes up?? Ive seen
plenty of them and its not pretty and it happens it literally minutes.
You really need to buy a clue on what you are doing.
Bubba

If you were talking about a relatively modern boiler (which operates on
pressure rather than draft), I would understand what you mean. But
apparently you don't realize how big the passages in my boiler are. Maybe
you need to familiarize yourself with older heating equipment (circa 1945,
it really is a beauty). I already mentioned that this monster used to be a
COAL boiler, so the exhaust pipe and chimney are over a foot in diameter and
the spaces within the heat exchanger are also quite large. I've have also
been monitoring the way it runs every day, so there's no way it can just
plug up without warning. Anyhow, I figured out the problem I was having with
the flame being a bit too long and sooty. The electrodes did in fact need to
be adjusted further away, and before I simply didn't let the furnace run
long enough after changing nozzles. This time I let it run for a good half
hour afterwards (and left the air intake band open all the way), and when I
checked it after it got good and hot the flame was compact and smokeless.
It's now just a matter of getting the perfect fuel/air ratio.........

- Logic316

"A diplomat thinks twice before saying nothing."

On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 17:29:55 -0400, "Logic316"


    I had heard that about you - can't hardly feel the edges :-)




--
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'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
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On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 17:29:55 -0400, "Logic316"


You keep proving yourself logic-less. I dont care if your flue
passages are a foot in diameter. Ive worked on shit 10 times older
than that and a hell of a lot bigger. Ive worked on crap that has been
around 80 -100 yrs I believe. It had doors on it where you crawl in it
to clean it out. If it isnt burning right it plugs up.......simple as
that. Ive also done old coal fired converted to oil boilers in
residential. The old (donut cast iron boilers). It ALL plugs up if you
dont know how to set it up. Last one was a 4 gal hr nozzle some old
timer gave up on. I went out and tried to set it up to factory specs.
HaHaHa. I couldnt have been any farther from correct. I finally got
ahold of some old fart that used digital equipment. He kind of laughed
at my attempt to set up this one to specs. First he upped the pump
pressure till it almost screamed. Changed to a nozzle I hadnt seen,
set the draft, make a couple tweaks and had it running awesome.
Brought the efficiency numbers up and all. He was old and had seen a
lot of shit. It was interesting to watch an old timer that had changed
over to digital. You can buy instruments on ebay and read a book but
you still wont have a clue.
Bubba

wrote:


    I've worked on crap that had doors you WALKED through to clean
it out :-)  And I mean you didn't have to stoop, either.  On start-up,
the first motor to come on ( for pre-purge among other things ) was a
5 HP blower - that, after pre-purge, served as combustion air FOR THE
PILOT ( and ONLY the pilot ), which was a horizontal flame 3 feet
long.  Then the MAIN pump ( the pump by itself, no motor cost $ 1,000
30 years ago ), blower, and burner started ramping up gradually.  The
firebox was ( from memory ) maybe 20 feet long and 6 feet high INSIDE
:-).  It was an exercise in self-control top stand at the end of that
thing and look at the flame coming towards you through the inspection
hole !  It was a spiral of flame ( hollow in the middle, controlled by
the combustion airflow ) ~ 3 feet in diameter and 12 feet long.


    And it can take as little as a couple of days to do it.
Granted, the installer has to have made EXTRA efforts to fuck it up
that bad - like have ~ 50 % as much combustion air as needed for the
nozzle he put in ...


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo online at www.pmilligan.net/palm/
Free 'People finder' program now at www.pmilligan.net/finder.htm

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 11:14:50 -0500, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
wrote:


And if it's going to plug up, it's safe to say the flame looks nowhere
NEAR like what it is supposed to look like.
To an experienced burner man, one look at the flame will tell him if
the digital meter is going to read close to what it should or not.