Leaking Compression Joint


I have just removed a radiator so that I can do some decorating - I have closed the valves at each end so that the radiator can be removed without draining the system.
I have successfully done this with many radiators but with this one I noticed a slow leak between the steel (may be just chrome plated) compression joint and the 10mm microbore pipe.
I tightened the compression joint at much as I could but the leak is still there but very very slow now.
I'm hoping that when the radiator is replaced and the valves reopened the pressured will be relieved and the leak will stop.
Failing that is there anything I can do to stop it without draining down the system and fitting a new olive.
What about a good smearing of LS-X bewteen the joint and the pipe?
What about other types of leak sealer?
Is it possible to solder the compression joint to the pipe without removing it?
Cheers,
Nigel
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The pressure will not be any lower when you reattach the radiator. But you may find that the leak self-seals after a few days.
Rob Graham
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Pressure as already mentioned will be exactly the same as it is now.
Soldering not on as pipes full of water (can't get it hot enough) and even if you could then all components need to be properly clean for successful soldering (which you cannot achieve without parting the joint).
Only solution I can see, apart from "suck it see", as already suggested, is to prepare for minor leakage and CAUTIOUSLY undo the compression nut, whilst holding the pipe into the fitting, draw the nut away from the fitting, then wind a few turns of thread tape over the olive and male part of the compression nut thread thus revealed. Refit the nut and retighten to normal degree, cross fingers and hope for best.
If this doesn't work ten there is no alternative (that I can see) but to dismantle and do "properly"
I assume you have internal leak sealer in the system already.
Do NOT persist in tightening as all you will do is endanger the integrity of the fitting or possibly split/ break the pipe, at which time you may drain the system in the most precipitous, not to mention inconvenient, manner possible to devise.
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Had similar problem.
Went & Been & Queed, bought freezing kit - uses nitrogen to freeze pipe in situ. Unscrewed compression and wound some PTFE tape around olive and re-fitted
OK
Cojack

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cojack wrote:

Wow, is it REALLY that simple? Beats air in the system and possible re-balancing of rads after! Screwfix only 8.49.
Just investigated, looks like you need to leave about 150mm of pipe showing, if you are cutting pipes off to just cap the ends. No good for my purpose as the pipes come down from the ceiling... I'll pull the floorboards up and take a peek to see if it can be done further up, but I doubt it... Hmmmmm
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