Help - Ground Floor Toilet Replacement (UK) - Glazed Drain - Bit Long

[TheScullster]

Hi all

Apologies for group cross posts but:

I have a 1970s property which AIUI is probably one of the last in the UK to be fitted with a glazed drain piping system. I am looking to replace the original downstairs WC with a more up to date model. The waste drain outlet is cast into the concrete floor approx 270mm from the wall of the room. The problem I have is that the existing toilet has a down pointing waste outlet which is mortared into the flared socket end on the drain pipe. So above floor level I have a 200mm o/dia socket which tapers down just before it enters the floor.

Without breaking up the toilet (which I understand is the accepted way to remove it) and cutting/chiselling out the mortared in outlet, I am not sure what is below concrete level.

The questions are:

Is the drain pipe below the socket a standard glazed swept bend type fitting? If so, does anyone have a link to dimensions for these? Can I simply cut off the socket and taper to leave the pipe flush with the concrete floor? If so how is this best achieved? Will this leave enough straight pipe below floor level to provide engagement for a plastic waste fitting pushed into it? Is there a fitting to do this job i. e. go from a horizontal toilet outlet into the bore of the drain pipe that will be left after removal of the socket? Any other pointers on this appreciated.

TIA

Phil

[Bypass]

Just pay a visit to the plumbing department of a builders merchants. They'll give you all the advice and sell you all the kit you might need.

Somewhere like Jewsons or Travis Perkins (but certainly not your diy stores).

[Heliotrope Smith]

Yes most likely. It could also be straight.

4 inches, give or take a whisker.

Hammer and chisel.

Should do.

Yes. Adjustable length 90 degree pan connector.

Be careful when breaking off the old pan and make up a bung from rags or plastic bags and stuff down the clay pipe to prevent rubble going down when clearing the old joint back to the floor.

You would be unlikely to useful information from builders merchants yardmen.

[TheScullster]

"Heliotrope Smith" wrote

Thanks Heliotrope Have you done this yourself? How is the flared upper "socket" best cut down to floor level? - I am concerned about the possibility of damage to the drain pipe below as it is cast into the concrete floor Will there be enough straight pipe below the socket for one of these finned plastic connectors to engage into?

Unfortunately that proved to be the case when I went round the plumbers/builders merchants on Saturday.

Phil

[Heliotrope Smith]

Yes Phil, I have done that job many times without any bother. You need only about 3 inches below floor level to connect into. An exta tip when first breaking off the old pan is to wrap tape around the spigot where it goes into collar. This will help prevent larger bits going down the pipe before inserting the bung. As the glazed pipe is surrounded by concrete it is very unlikely it would split or break very much below floor level. Put your bung down and tap away gently with hammer and chisel from the inside of the collar/pipe towards the outside. Don't worry if you get smallish chips or cracks below floor level, the adaptor will fit below these. Remove debries and bung. Job done.

[TheScullster]

"Heliotrope Smith" wrote

Heliotrope

Many, many thanks for all this. I am not the sort of person who has the confidence to attempt jobs without knowing all the wrinkles before I start. Your assistance has been invaluable.

Phil