Leftover Fanfold

The guys who did my new siding left me a few bundles of Alside 1/4" fanfold rigid foam and I'm looking for a good place to use it up. Was thinking perhaps the attic - in between the rafters (which would involve much cutting), or on their edges? Somewhere else? I'm just not sure.

Reply to
Pat
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Well, the R value is only 1, so you would need many layers to make an appreciable difference.

Reply to
DT

"DT" wrote | snipped-for-privacy@centurytel.net says... | >

| >The guys who did my new siding left me a few bundles of Alside 1/4" fanfold | >rigid foam and I'm looking for a good place to use it up. Was thinking | >perhaps the attic - in between the rafters (which would involve much | >cutting), or on their edges? Somewhere else? I'm just not sure. | | | Well, the R value is only 1, so you would need many layers to make an | appreciable difference.

It's got a reflective coating on both sides, so I thought it might be helpful up there, if installed correctly. But I don't know what the correct method would be.

Reply to
Pat

Rigid foams are highly flammable and by code must be covered by drywall or other fire resistant covering. Foil facings don't affect the requirement.

Donate it to Habitat for Humanity, or sell/give it away on Craigslist.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

"RicodJour" wrote

| Rigid foams are highly flammable and by code must be covered by | drywall or other fire resistant covering. Foil facings don't affect | the requirement. | | Donate it to Habitat for Humanity, or sell/give it away on Craigslist.

Is rigid foam more flammable than the bare wood up there?

What covering other than drywall would meet the code?

No one around here to enfore code anyway. In fact no one would even know what I did.

Reply to
Pat

Fuckloads.

In attics and crawlspaces: "1-1/2 inch-thick (38 mm) mineral fiber insulation, 1/4 inch-thick (6.4 mm) wood structural panels, 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) particle board, 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) hardboard, 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) gypsum board, or corrosion-resistant steel having a base metal thickness of 0.016 inch (0.406 mm)"

Is that how you operate? "I won't change my car oil because no one will know?" It's for your benefit, no one else's.

Burning plastics give off dioxins when they burn. Considering that it would be you and yours that would be breathing the stuff - at least for a short while until you weren't anymore - you wouldn't be exactly "winning" in that situation. A building inspector wouldn't lose sleep if your family died from the fumes due to your neglect.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

"RicodJour" wrote | Pat wrote: | > Is rigid foam more flammable than the bare wood up there? | | Fuckloads.

I had no idea.

| > What covering other than drywall would meet the code? | | In attics and crawlspaces: "1-1/2 inch-thick (38 mm) mineral fiber | insulation, 1/4 inch-thick (6.4 mm) wood structural panels, 3/8 inch | (9.5 | mm) particle board, 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) hardboard, 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) | gypsum | board, or corrosion-resistant steel having a base metal thickness of | 0.016 inch (0.406 mm)" | | > No one around here to enfore code anyway. In fact no one would even know | > what I did. | | Is that how you operate? "I won't change my car oil because no one | will know?" It's for your benefit, no one else's.

Of course not. But if I knew that my car's engine ran well on vegetable oil, I'd probably use it even if the manufacturer said not to, or there was a law against it.

| Burning plastics give off dioxins when they burn. Considering that it | would be you and yours that would be breathing the stuff

Yes, a drop in the bucket of plastic smoke this house would produce if it burned. The carpeting, the blinds, the window sashes, tons more. Not to mention the whole place is wrapped in the stuff.

I don't get it. If the stuff is so flammable, why was it OK to use it between the non-fireproof siding and the non-fireproof wood?

Reply to
Pat

It's outside the house and the sheathing is relatively fire resistive. Nothing is really fireproof. Presumably you also have fiberglass insulation in the walls and drywall on the interior.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Rico's right Pat.

Reply to
Michael Bulatovich

I'll take it. Can you deliver ?

Reply to
crhras

"crhras" wrote

| I'll take it. Can you deliver ?

No. I don't have a vehicle. If the stuff can't be used in the attic here, I'd appreciate some suggestions on other ways to use it to improve my house.

| >

| |

Reply to
Pat

Ask the installers where they got it and return it for a refund. Or sell it to the installers for half price. It's pretty odd that the installers didn't take the full bundles. It's not like you have any real need for it and they do.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

"RicodJour" wrote

| Ask the installers where they got it and return it for a refund. Or | sell it to the installers for half price. | It's pretty odd that the installers didn't take the full bundles. | It's not like you have any real need for it and they do.

They didn't want it back. It's been here almost a year. I want to FIND a use for it, and use it up. Please tell me what I can do with it IN or ON my house. MY house! What is it good for????

Reply to
Pat

The only thing I've ever used it for, besides its intended use, is as either a backdrop for spray painting, or as a semi-raised surface when cutting sheet goods so the cutoff won't drop and tear out the last part of the cut.

Pat, if you backed off the gas pedal 5 mph on the way down to the Island and back it would probably save you as much as the fanfold is worth.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

"RicodJour" wrote

| Pat, if you backed off the gas pedal 5 mph on the way down to the | Island and back it would probably save you as much as the fanfold is | worth.

What Island? I live in the lower midwest, no islands around here. How much is the fanfold worth?

Reply to
Pat

Sorry, wrong Pat - different newsgroup. The fanfold stuff is about $40 a bundle. It's not expensive, but it's not cheap. You have no real use for it, your siders do. That's why I was surprised they left it with you. It wasn't a time and materials job, was it?

R
Reply to
RicodJour

"RicodJour" wrote

| $40 a bundle. It's not expensive, but it's not cheap. You have no | real use for it, your siders do. That's why I was surprised they left | it with you. It wasn't a time and materials job, was it?

I don't know what that means.

A man came out and gave me a price for the whole job. I had the windows replaced by the same company. When the windows were ready, the installers came and put them in, and a week or so later, the siding crew came.

When it was all over, I had to give them a check for the full amount that had been quoted to me. There were three boxes of siding left, and since I had paid for it, I told them to leave it here, and I would use it on my detached garage. There was a bunch of other stuff left behind, including the fanfold.

I'll take it to a swap meet or put it in my next yard sale, or something, if it can't be used on the house. I don't think there's quite enough for the attic anyway.

Reply to
Pat

heh I thought it was the same Pat too.

Reply to
Michael Bulatovich

Usually the job specific materials - like a particular style and color of siding - will be left with the owner. Surplus fasteners, felt, insulation - stuff that can be used on any job - is kept by the contractor.

That's probably the best bet.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Pat, That stuff is used quite a bit by RC modellers who are into flying electrics - they make small "foamy" aircraft out of it, use micro servos, motors, and rechargeable batteries. Really kind of neat - airplanes you can fly indoors.

A check with your local hobby store or model airplane club will probably find some folks who'd take it off your hands...

Reply to
v8z

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