Electrical question for new workshop

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rlz wrote:

He may sell it for that purpose, but it's not right. You could have used UF-B and had it all in one cable. Perhaps that's what mr. senile was thinking of.
Well, I then bought 3 sections of #6(Blk,Wht,Red) and 1

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wrote:

As the originator ofthis thread, let me say thanks for all of the posts. I decided my 100 Amp panel was overkill and decided to go with 50 amp panel instead. I purchased 50' of 6/3 w.Grnd at Lowes and ran it inside 1.5" conduit. When the inspector came out, he said that the cabling was not "W" weather-rated, such as TNHW rating. Apparently, it was for inside work and labeled NM-B. I went back to lowes and talk to the older guy who I had previously worked with. He was surprised and then said that they sell this for that exact purpose. Well, I then bought 3 sections of #6(Blk,Wht,Red) and 1 section of #10 for ground.
But Lowes did take the cut wire back and give me a refund, so I commend them on that.
*The inspector is correct. Underground wiring whether it be in a conduit or direct burial must be rated for wet locations. Hence the "W" designation. Pulling cable in a conduit is a waste of money anyway. The individual conductors are cheaper.
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Speaking of cables. Where do you find the contraption you use to pull cables with? Looks like a Chinese finger trap. Goes over the end, and when you pull it, it tightens and grabs the wires.
What I like about conduit, is you can later change out the wire with ought digging again.

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*An electrical supply company normally has these. For smaller gauge wires such as these I don't even bother with the sock. I strip the wires back about 12" and cut off some of the outer strands. Then I just double them over like a big hook and connect them to a rope or wire cable loop. I tape the hook the entire length and use lots of lubricant. The new SimPull conductors almost don't need any lubricant.

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