Driving screws?

What's the consensus out there on the best tool to drive screws? About the only way I can prevent cam-out with longer screws is to use screws with hex or torx heads.
...Bob
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Do you pre-drill for the longer screws ?? I have learned to do this for the longer screws, even deck screws, it realy helps to get them to go on in.

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On the last deck project I did, I drove about 2500 screws, mostly combi drive from Home Depot with the driver in the box. I used a 12v Hitachi impact driver - noisy but very effective.
JK
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I bought myself a Bosch impact driver a few months ago. It's one of the best tools I own. It small and lightweight, but has no problem driving screws fast and without cam-out.
As someone else said, for the longer screws it is a good idea to predrill.
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Best "tool"?
Drill / driver with good driver bit (esp important with Phillips)
sufficient tool pressure to keep driver engaged
Driving "element" type & screw thread design are more important than tool.
Screws with square drives will solve a lot of the problem as will hex heads (but not a solution for flat head screws)
cheers Bob
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I prefer an impact driver and torx head screws. However, I have driven thousands of screws up to 4" with a regular cordless drill and phillips tips and no pilot hole. If you are having problems with cam out, it is because you have the wrong tip, a worn tip, you are not aligning the driver with the screw, or you are not using enough pressure on the drill.
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marson wrote:

Or not driving fast enough. It is hard to stay with my Milwaukee at full bore (2,500 RPM as I recall), but it will drive Phillips head screws without cam out if you push hard and pull the trigger fully. If you get tentative, then you have trouble. However, if you "go for it" each time, it will drive deck screws into treated lumber with little trouble.
Matt
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sometimes that going for it can twist off screws also, have done that with 3 inch deck screws, Craftsman 19.2 V cordless drill, for the most part you can go for it, but sometimes that screw will just break right off, just below the head normaly.
wrote:

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wrote:

A side handle helps greatly with both alignment (holding the driver square) and with stability, too.
Other posts have suggested an impact driver! That's one that I never would have considered, but after reading this thread I'm going to give it a try some day.
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An impact gun makes all the difference in the world. I recently acquired a DeWalt. If there is any drawback it would be that it does not have a chuck and requires the Apex type hex drive stuff. Other than that, it is the tool of choice that comes out of the truck.
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Torque Drive best pre-cutting screw head best Pre-wax good way to go Pre-drill always adviseable on longer screws and hard materials..... Impact driver best......Makita is great...... Patience.... jloomis

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JL:
I'm missing something on the "pre-cutting" of the screw head. Your enlightenment would be appreciated. Everything else concurs with my findings. Thanks.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
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On Dec 29, 9:07 pm, "Edward Hennessey"

I think what he means is a self cutting point. Best thing since sliced bread.
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M:
Ah, that is what I thought. Thank you.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
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Odd question the way its phrased. Screws have different type of heads. Each takes a different fitting for a power driven tool. Is the fitting the tool?
Was bending, sometimes breaking, stainless steel deck screws with torx head. Found some stainless steel screws with a hex head, same results. Found some screws (unknown material, dull brass color) with a square head fitting, came with bit. Didn't bend or break. Screwed in great.
Dave
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i use a brace--never let me down
peter
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Makita.......impact driver.....the best by far...... jloomis torque head screws great.........pre-drill type even better.... jloomis

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