Yeah, that's my favorite part of the wreck too.
I'm tempted to see what suggestions I get for a pair of cabinet
doors I mis-measured, and made 1/8" too narrow (so I have a 1/4"
gap in the middle, which is a tad too much). What I will probably
do is just glue a thin strip on the hinge side of each door.
But I'm tempted to get fancy, trim the doors on all four sides,
and add a 1/4" cock-bead all round.
Oh, yeah, I meant to mention that. Especially if the mortise
is near the end of a piece, you need to go carefully and do
the cross-grain cut before the long grain to avoid splitting
or blowing a chunk out the end.
Some people leave their stock long and cut the mortises, and
then trim to length, to help avoid problems. I don't, but
I usually don't use a mallet if I have to clean up the end
of a mortise, and just hit the chisel with my palm.
BTW, I usually use two chisels - a narrow one for the cross-
grain, and a wide one for the longways cut.
Right. So use a knife.
In your case, the only thing that matters is that the router mortice be
squared at the outside and that area can be very shallow, rest of the
mortice can be whatever as long as the tenon fits. I find it simpler to
square up an area with a sharp knife rather than a chisel.
Does the design require through tenons for any reason other then just
"looks" or just to prove that you can do it? If not, I would fake it
and have the job done, probably in less time than it takes to hand
carve just one through tenon to perfection.
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