I am looking for a wood hardener to reinforce shelf pin holes (drilled
in 3/4" plywood) so that they don't tearout under load (note that I am also
using shelf pin sleeves).
For this application, I was wondering what would be the best choice:
- Thin CA (any brand recommendations?)
- Thin epoxy
- Minwax wood hardener
My thought is that a glue like CA or epoxy might be best because in
addition to hardening the wood they would also bond the shelf sleeve
to the hole and further lock it all together.
Any suggestions on what might be best?
Belt & suspenders...
My concern is that over many years, I may still get tearout due to
wear-and-tear and abuse.
I have tested the setup using CA reinforced holes up to 400 lbs without
tearout. Since CA is relatively expensive, this got me to wondering
whether epoxy or minwax harderner would be equivalent or even better
1. Zap seems to be 2X the cost of some other thin CA brands. Is it
worth the cost and if so, what makes it better?
2. Are you saying Zap (and CA in general) is better than expoxy and
MinWax or are you just saying that if you use CA, then go with Zap?
A slow cured 2 part epoxy resin is much more robust than cured
cyanoacrylate resins. The CA has the lower viscosity advantage, but to
overcome that difference, it is easy to warm the wood with a heat gun
to maybe 120-130 F and the epoxy will flow and penetrate very nicely.
This trick works especially well on old weathered wood restoration
I use LiquidWood epoxy for wood repair & hardening as well
they also make a structural paste WoodEpox
Liquid wood will stay good for years if kept in tightly sealed metal
containers....I have some that is over 20 years old & still hardens
when mixed up. I don't usethe old stuff for critical applications or
for outside use (I use new stuff for that) I do still use it.
available from http://abatron.com
if you do you the stuff, mix it up & let it sit in the mix cup for ~30
minutes, this "inductin period" will get the reaction going so that
when you let it seep into the wood (thin layers slow down the cure
process) it will "kick" in a reasonable amount of time. Heat gun it at
~120 to 150F & it will kick it an hour or so.
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