Im putting in wainscoting in my second bathroom. Is there a problem
with just nailing the wainscoting at the top and bottom (in the studs)
where the molding will cover. It seems to be very sturdy.
I would put a nail on stud layout in the center as well. If you are
painting the wainscotting, it will never show. If you are using a stained
or natural wainscot, use colored putty to hide the nail hole.
On Wed, 04 Feb 2004 00:48:26 GMT, email@example.com (Bruce) wrote:
If it's WOOD wainscotting, nailing it to embedded boards, leaving some
of the wainscotting the opportunity to float, will ensure a long
lasting job. Gluing solid wood wainscotting to drywall can be asking
for trouble in some climates.
MDF wainscotting is easy to glue, as it doesn't have the movement of
Why not consider using 1/2" fir ply (go to hell looking
stuff) on the wall as a substrate. Cover that with your
finish (good) wood and cap off the top edge with a
molding(s). This way you will have good and continuous
grounds for your nails. The plywood can be put up with
screws into each stud and "stitch" nailed at the areas
between the studs.
"Stitch" nailing - When nailing into drywall there are times
when placing two nails close together (1/2" - 1") and
crossing them (making an X) is enough to hold the piece to
One of the problems associated with doing that is if you have any power
recepticles, light switches, or toilet paper dispenser or whatever in the
wall, you have to *remodel* those as well. Kind of a pita although entirely
possible. Another potential problem is if you have enough room behind the
toilet to accomodate the plywood. Just food for thought.
Yes the toilet might/could be a problem but you only need
box extensions for electrical receptacles.
Alternately, you could cut away the drywall from the (insert
height here) line down and go right up to the studs. It's
messy but doable by anyone with some smarts.
A great way to use the plywood is in wide strips, replacing the
drywall. The outlets can be left alone, continuous wide strips can be
placed above the outlets to Unisaw's line, with another running
slightly below the outlets to the floor.
This makes it really easy to find convenient nailing locations. The
drywall is easily removed with a Roto-Zip or small circular saw set to
the correct depth, as well as the old standby utility knife.
That could be an advantage as well. Change things and/or take a look at
what is going on inside the walls.
I know I'd like to redo the light switch, replace the duplex and add
another in the loo I use, but alas, the walls are tile, so it'll have to
be put at the far end of a list of things that SWMBO orders/agrees to.
I guess I've done a lot of it, so its pretty easy for me.
True, but he's only talking substrate. The OP is going to have to get
his paneling back there anyway and having a decent substrate will make
Additionally, a bathroom is a tough place for paneling to survive in.
Personally, I wouldn't want it, but if i did I wouldn't want it glued to
drywall, which itself has problems enduring in a bathroom environment...
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