Table tops ruined - well, messed up

The end tables I made for SWMBO are Maple stained with H2O-based stain and covered with Varnish.

I applied the Varnish thinned 2:1 with Mineral Spirits by wiping with a rag. I waited 24 hours between coats. Between the 3rd & 4th and

5th & 6th coats I scraped away any nastiness. Between the 6th & 7th and 7th & 8th coats I rubbed it with #00 to smooth everything up.

So now I have 8 coats all applied with at least 24 hours in between. I wait 48 hours then glue the apron and legs together. I thought the clamps ruined the finish on the legs but it was just some dust from the rubber pads that came off with a rough rubbing of a dry rag. Next day I screw the tops on with some Norm style blocks set in a dado on the aprons. Tada!

Swmbo is happy they are done (me too). I take them upstairs and she positions them and carefully places the lamps on the tables with doilies (sp?) underneath. (72 hours drying time for the tops - applied in the heated basement).

Yesterday I get curious and lift the lamps and see marks where the lamps made impressions of the doily fabric on the tables. I mumble and mutter to myself.

After the in-laws visit on the 25th I will buff the marks out and apply another coat which will probably fix the marks. But...

How long does this stuff take to cure?

Reply to
RayV
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Temperature, humidity, and number of coats will all factor in on total cure time. Time will tell.

Reply to
Leon

It depends on the specific details, but it's not uncommon for varnish to take a couple weeks to fully cure. You might want to contact the manufacturer and ask them...

Chris

Reply to
Chris Friesen

Ray,

THE critical question . . . what KIND of Varnish?

If it was a 'long oil' Varnish - SPAR Varnish - the answer is 'Never'. That stuff is supposed to be 'soft' and flexible.

If something is going to be in contact with the surface {shod feet, hands, your butt, or a table lamp} you need a 'short oil' varnish.

For interior items, where 'contact use' is expected, I avoid the problem entirely by applying my usual 6 coats using a water-based poly. If the 'traditional Amber' tone is desired, I'll do it with a prior light staining, or add drops of dye to the poly until I reach the tone I want.

I do use 'short oil' varnish for interior work - where UV exposure protection is required.

Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

"RayV" wrote ..

Reply to
Ron Magen

Not knowing what "stuff" you used, I can't make an honest judgement. Environmental conditions play a huge role in how quickly finish cures as well. It may sound a little funny, but I smell the finish. When I can't smell it any longer, it's cured. Not scientific but it seems to have worked for me. Cheers, cc

Reply to
Cubby

I agree, the smell test is the best way, with most finishes.

I recently refinished my front door with an oil based poly. Since the temperatures were already down, it took almost

4 weeks for the smell to really disappear. Interestingly, I noticed that the finish was a *lot* harder than it had been after around one week (when it "looked" done).
Reply to
Malcolm Hoar

I've read at least two weeks. I've done some rubbed out poly that came out fantastic, but I let it cure two weeks before I started the polishing. Given the number of coats you used, I'd say it can be three or four weeks.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

I wait a month, sometimes 6 weeks. Then apply a coat a wax and buff. A good finish takes patience.

Reply to
Phisherman

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