Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my shop
The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again, Leon!!!!),
but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two) storage of the
smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools, squares, planes,
blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.
Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a form
that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:
How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...
I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf Coast
may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_ experience in long
term (one to two year) storing of items like these.
Why not just dip them in motor oil and put them in plastic zip-top
bags? As long as the bags are in a box or something so that friction
won't let the bits cut through the bags...
Or buy some of that rubbery goo they coat new router bits with, if you
can find it.
and VCI wrap
http://www.uline.com/BL_5250/VCI-Anti-Rust-Paper?pricode=WO442 is the
"traditional" way to do it.
The paper's got enough body that a few wraps should keep cutting edges
on router bits and the like separated.
Contct a bit manufacturer or a saw sharpening service and find out
what they use for the soft plastic protective coating.
My sharpening service has a dip tank.
Maybe you could contract with a local source to dip your stuff.
Nothing specifically on the direct question, sorry, but I had similar
thoughts as have already been posited.
I'd only remind the obvious that the storage environment would make a
huge difference if at all possible to get at least minimal climate
control would be good...(maybe could rent bomb bay space in one of the
stored relics of the Air Force in AZ? :) )
A number of years ago, I was engaged in a study to determine what
prevented corrosion on the tops of table saws most effectively for
shipping and storage. So I partnered with a supplier of vapor paper
and sent about 25 samples to the humidity chamber. Various
combinations of solutions, greases, mikelman coated corrugated, wood
(to test its propensity to work through the other stuff and corrode,
i.e. pallets stacked several high) and vapor paper.
As it turned out, vapor paper by itself worked the best. We continued
to put a light grease, but only to hold the paper on while packing off
It works by emmitting a vapor as opposed to collecting the water from
the air or providing a barrier. I'm not sure where you can get it,
it was a wholesale item for us.
So I packed off my "special Unisaw" with paper on the top and paper
wadded up in the body of the saw. It was doing fine in a very humid
climate, however, I can attest to the fact that it did not stand up to
being submerged in seven feet of brackish water and then not tended to
for several weeks after Katrina.
MANY years ago when working along the coast, we had a simple solution
for rust problems with small items. Before we knew it as being a piss
poor joke on homeowners, we used Water Displacement Formula 40 for its
For those not familiar with the Gulf coast area, there are weeks where
it will rain EVERY day... at least a little... and then still curse
you with high humidity. Your high carbon tools will actually get a
fine coat of rust in a few hours there.
An open truck tool box (helpers), or the tools strung out on the job
when you get a quick shower made our tools rust like hell.
We started to wrap up our tools in towels we swiped from the hotels we
stayed in that were well sprayed with WD 40. In those towels, they
could be rained on and not rust. So we started putting any tools we
weren't using in the towels, giving them a quick spritz, and putting
them in the tool box.
Then we started to spray the open boxes of nails, and that killed the
rust problem on those as well.
FWIW, I had a bunch of hand tools (chisels, squares, dull drill bits
that I have intended to sharpen for several years, etc.) that were
older, less sturdy, and not "favorites" of mine that I put in a large
truck tool box that I pulled off an old work truck. I did the same
wrap, and just opened the box and sprayed the towels every six months
or so and never had a spot of rust. They stayed in there for about 4
years until I sold the box and most of the stuff in it. Others have
done this as well with great success. It seems the key to though, it
to make sure you put the items and towels/rags in a container that is
pretty well sealed to keep the WD40 from flashing off.
Our average humidity is not so far off Houston as you might think.
Our average morning humidity is 83%.
Just a low tech answer. I have no experience with those emitter
gizmos. As always, YMMV.
Hope you don't have the tools put up long.
google is your friend...if you're not just looking for an argument :(
Since now it is a class that matches a Mil-Spec (whose number I don't
recall), there are a variety of products that can qualify as well as the
Thanks. I wasn't looking for an argument. I was under the impression
that it was taken off the market. I'm not sure any of these is the
traditional cosmolene of years ago, but the "weathershed" sounds like
at least a modern replacement for it.
Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.
I think my original belief was correct. The cosmolene name still
exists,and they have new products with that familiar name on them, but
the stuff they used many years ago, that was called cosmolene, was
taken off the market because it contained carcinogens.
I also think, after seeing many of those google results, that many
people call any rustproof coating "cosmolene", regardless of what it
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