Spraying conundrum

[todd]

I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets and I'd really like to spray a finish on them. Plus, I'd really like to get into spraying in general. I had a nice talk with Jeff Jewitt today mostly about HVLP conversion guns. The key piece of data I was missing, however, was the CFM of my existing compressor. After getting home and looking at it, I still don't know. I've had the thing a lot longer than I've been woodworking and it wasn't anywhere near the top of the line then. The operator manual I have doesn't have the specs as it relates to CFM, but I'm not real hopeful. It's a Coleman Black Max 20 gal/5HP single-stage, direct drive model. Unless someone knows different, I'm betting it's in the 4-6CFM range, which isn't really going to get the job done, spraying-wise (AFAIK).

So, I'm open to suggestions. Other than spraying, there's really nothing pushing me to replace the compressor. If I get a compressor with enough CFM to do the job plus a decent gun, am I going to be getting into turbine HVLP rig range price-wise?

todd

[JGS]

[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 00:40:15 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, "todd" quickly quoth:

You might be surprised. Unless you're shooting the entire kitchen set of cabinets in one, non-stop run, your compressor will probably have enough capacity to handle that project. Since the HVLP guns run at a lower pressure, you have all that overhead (40-120psi) to go through before the pressure to the gun gets low. A 2-minute break between sprays will likely rebuild it.

As a test, get the gun, set the pressure, and pull the trigger. Note how long it takes for the compressor to kick in, and then how long it takes to deplete the tank below the minimum gun pressure. I'll bet it's 6 or 7 minutes. Spraying what you can get to shouldn't take that long.

You can add extra capacity by buying another air tank. I keep a couple of 5-gallon tanks handy and use them away from the compressor as spare air. To increase capacity, I'll just leave the coupler in when I fill the tanks. I do this for blowing out the shop. That takes a lot of air at the highest pressure. Check the Schucks/AutoZone/etc. ads for tanks. They're on sale for $20 quite often. Keep one in your trunk for flat tires when you're not spraying. They're handy. I ran my brad nailer from one when I put up new soffit panels. It's good for 50+ shots (with a regulator.)

[ukalumni]

I recently bought a Husky 17 gal compressor and matching HVLP gun from HD. The gun needs somewhere between 5-6 CFM, which this compressor supplies.

I have been spraying a lot of trim boards with it, and it is doing a good job. Paid under $300 for both including tax.

I know there are much better setups, but this was a good first purchase for me to start spraying.

I would be surprised if that gun ($79, I think) wouldn't work with your existing compressor.

[todd]

I meant to add that I have no interest in spraying latex. I'm mostly interested in stuff like shellac, lacquer, and conversion finishes.

todd

[bridgerfafc]

that *sounds* like a pretty healthy compressor... unless those are sears horsies it should be able to drive a spray gun.

take a look at these guns:

or:

I have a 19c. it rocks.

[todd]

I think I'll probably give it a shot. Do you have any thoughts on the type of conversion gun? Gravity feed vs. pressurized pot? What kind of filter/regulator should I look for?

todd

[Martin Thomas]

I have the cheapest HVLP sprayer that you could buy....its a campbell hausfield....it was $99.00 on sale at HD.......I dont mind saying that the finsih is just great....I made a whole bunch of raised panel kitchen cabinet doors in cherry and finished them with clear laquer.....they look and feel great......I also looked at getting a new compressor to handle a better gun etc....but the cost to get that much CFM is way too much, also the size of the compressorrs tend to be large......the HVLP systems out there are very small and dont require special voiltages and high amp circuits........Go try the cheap one at HD and take it back for a refund if you dont agree with my opinion

[bridgerfafc]

the pressure pot allows the gun to be used at different angles, which is very handy. think about being able to aim up and down while spraying interiors....

here's the filter/regulator I use:

took the lubricator off of it. it works fine for me shooting water based poly.

[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 11:00:32 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, "todd" quickly quoth:

One of HF FRL goes for $20 on sale often, like TODAY! ($19.99)

've heard that the Astra HVLP guns are nice. $90 on eBay. HF has one for $50 but I don't know anyone who has one. I think if I were buying a cheaper gun, I'd definitely go with a gravity type.

HF Tanks. For $66, you can double your compressor capacity. That's a lot cheaper than buying a larger compressor if it's unnecessary.

5-gal models go for $22.99.

[Robatoy]

That is a surprisingly good gun. Controls are precise, atomizes just wonderfully (at least with lacquer) all you need to do is keep it clean and it will just fine for years.

[todd]

I called Jeff Jewitt back today and decided to go with a Walcom Slim S. It's a gravity feed unit. I might have been able to shop around a little more, but I figure being able to talk to Jeff if I have a problem is worth something. I'll see how my current setup works when I get the gun.

Thanks for your help.

todd

[Avraham]

Only problem with their tanks is the hard-wired (plumbed?) auto-tire fitting on the output side. I bought one hoping to use it with a nailer away from my compressor, but it didn't work out. PK

[George E. Cawthon]

Don't know for sure which gun you mean buy I have the conversion gun with a 2 qt container (same gun as the 1qt). I would say it is lousy for latex, atomizes ok, but is so slow it will drive you crazy. It works very well for spraying oil based enamel so I don't doubt it would work well for anything less viscous (just about anything except latex).

[Mike Marlow]

The secret to every good spray gun! It doesn't matter what they look like on the outside, but inside - in the cup, in the orifices, in all of the inside parts and pieces, it matters a lot. I keep mine clean on the outside as well, just because I do, but you can find paint shops all across America with guns that are a visible testimony to every kind and color of paint that has ever been shot through them. But... the insides of those guns will be very clean. The number one problem with guns that won't throw a good fan, or that drip, or that won't atomize, or won't regulate the rate - all come down to the gun not being clean - always. The second most common problem is with oilers in the line. Paint does not like oil in the air line. Oil your air tools at the inlet - not in the air line.

[Mike Marlow]

Ahem... ummmmm... remove the factory installed air line and screw in an air chuck. They are 1/4 NPT fittings, you can put anything you want there that will screw in.

[Avraham]

Huh. Mine isn't, unfortunately. Of course, it isn't from HF, it's from Tractor Supply, now that I think about it. I'm not a *complete* goob, I did think about replacing the line. :) K

[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 04 Jan 2006 23:28:05 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Avraham quickly quoth:

Got a blade? Cut the end off the rubber hose and install a barbed fitting and female quick-disconnect.

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[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 22:28:28 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, "todd" quickly quoth:

Ouch, $260 for the gun and $96 for each needle/aircap set? Since you need one for latex (home stuff), one for lacquer (projects), etc., it can add up quickly. But I guess that having a pro handy for questions can be invaluable. Let us know how you like it.

Jewelcome.

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[Avraham]

Now that's an idea. I'll have to check that one out. Tanks!