Shop insulation / covering recommendations

[Dukester]

Recently finished construction, painting my 20'x24' shop. Raftered roof, 5/12 pitch, 8' walls. The roof has gable and soffit vents. It also has it's own 100 amp service. T-111 siding with foamboard on the center sections and OSB on the corners.

My question is regarding insulation and wall covering. I have not insulated yet (1 bill at a time!) and was thinking about doing R19 in between the joists and R11 in the walls. (I'm in the mid-south - think Memphis). I feel like this would be adequate in the winter months, but will it do anything for me in the hot, humid summers (I'll buy a window A/C next year.) Should I have anything directly under the roof decking & rafters?

Also, are the any options to drywall for a ceiling and walls? I loved Matthew Teagues idea of using the T-111 on the _in_side for a wall covering, namely it's strength, and I really hate sheetrock, but the T-111 would be expensive. Ideas?

Finally, would it make much difference to just lay drywall on top of the joists and then the insulation on top of that? (I'm thinking I'd like to use the joists for hanging things, and gain that extra 5.5" of space.

Thanks for any ideas! Duke

[Charlie Self]

Dukester asks:

OSB...7/16" for ceiling; 5/8" for walls. Seems like right now, though, it's all expensive, at a time when prices have usually dropped quite a bit. I'd sit on it for 6-8 weeks and see if late January, early February bring their usual reduction in prices.

Use OSB. I don't see that it would make any real difference, but I'd make sure to at least lightly nail the covering to the topsides of the joists. It does make it difficult, in attics, because you would be likely to step on the cover, which, with light OSB or Sheetrock, is an invitation to a screwed up knee when your foot goes through. If the place is accessible only by crawling, etc., it's less of a problem.

Charlie Self

"In the final choice a soldier's pack is not so heavy as a prisoner's chains." Dwight D. Eisenhower

[PPH]

Put in an attic fan with a thermostat. That way it will automatically kick in at the temp you select. I have seen some which run off solar panels. No cost to run and cost about $100. Having one of these is a must, cycles the hot air out of the attic.

[Larry C in Auburn, WA]

Here's an idea for wall covering: I put in slatwall and it's worked out well for me. I bought all of it at an auction for a great price, but since the stuff is used in many retail stores there must be a market for used pieces. I suspect there is a dealer near you that sells used retail stuff. It's surprisingly strong and provides the ultimate in adaptability for those of us that haven't figured out yet the optimal location for everything. The stuff is pricey new though; roughly $50 a 4x8 sheet and up depending on type. The brackets are pricey too.

[David Babcock]

I've got 1/4" plywood on all wall surfaces in a converted single car garaged. There is an exposed three foot high concrete foundation, vapor barrier, then foil covered foam board insulated walls. The joists on the remaining vertical walls have been daughtered to meet the edge of the insulation, thereby giving me flat plywood walls. I bought the one side finished plywood, at the time it wasn't that expensive, and any defects where fixed after it went up. If I need structural strength, I support anything I do, (shelves, etc.) with underneath supports. T-111 is okay but kinda rough for an interior wall.

Dave

[Michael Baglio]

Psst, Dave... you misspelled T1-11. :)

Michael No, really. See gp.com.

[Silvan]

*Ouch*! I just had a vision of a dislocated knee cap. That's a really good thing to keep in mind in a situation like that, and something I'd have probably never thought of until afterwards.

[James D Kountz]

I insulated then used good ol pegboard. I can hang anything anywhere! Here at the local HD you can get unfinished for about $10 or white for $13. For someone like me who hates to paint walls the finished was my choice!

Jim

"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" >