Re: Painting new wood windows, indoor and outside

[Phil Mitchell]

I just finished re-finishing a couple of windows in my house so here's what I do.

After sanding to desired smoothness (I use 180 and 220 grit papers) vacuum well and wipe down with a tack rag. Remove the movable sash part and paint separately. Be careful not to paint the sealing gasket material.

Apply a coat of your favorite primer. Cover the entire sash but not too thick. I believe that part of the reason my windows didn't hold paint was two fold. First, I don't think the prep work was adequate. Second, the paint was on too thick causing it to check and crack in the freeze - thaw cycle we get here in Minnesota.

After the primer dries overnight, scuff it with 180 paper and top coat with the color of your choice. It's ok to use the same brush. Just be sure to clean it properly after each use.

Wait another 24 hours and top coat again. Now wait 24-48 hours and assemble window.

Hello- > My question involves paining newly installed wood windows with lots of > sash work. The windows are located in a sun room. I've already > purchased a good 2 inch sash brush. As the windows are new with 'bare' > wood I will be putting an oil based primer on. What should I use for a > brush to apply the primer? Is it ok to use the same brush that I > purchased for the paint? Or should I buy another? I figure its not > wise to use a 'cheapo' brush for the primer. Please advise. > KOS

[Leon]

Yes if the brush is synthetic. If your brush is natural hair, you need to use an oil based primer also.

The brush you use will depend on your primer. If you use a water based primer or paint, you must use a synthetic brush like nylon or polyester. Otherwise your brush will go limp like you hair does when you wash it. Normally a synthetic brush works well for water and oil based brushes.

Or should I buy another? I figure its not wise to use a 'cheapo' brush for the primer.

Seldom is it wise to use a cheapo brush when painting.

[Ernie Jurick]

If you're going to be painting mullions or decorative beading/trim, you'll need a much smaller angle brush (¾" - 1") to maintain control. Also invest in lots of quality masking tape.

-- Ernie

[Leon]

No kidding... I use a 3" brush for all detail work, I prefer to keep the brush on what I am painting vs. the can. If the 3" brush does not fit into the area, I then go down in size.

[nospambob]

[Ernie Jurick]

Actually, I use an artist's brush for mullions. But that's just me.

-- Ernie