On Sat, 28 Feb 2004 13:37:27 GMT, email@example.com wrote:
Bonding strength for veneer is always far more than you need to hold a
sheet down, and never enough to hold an unsupported edge or corner
from splitting. If you're worried about this stuff, think of solid
timber lippings etc.
I've found pre-glued veneer to be very expensive - far more than
unglued veneer, mainly because it's more of a "retail" product. It
may also have poor glue behaviour if it has been poorly stored in the
past (damp is the problem).
I have used similar veneer in the past, using a hot-mount tissue and a
photographer's heated glazing / mounting flatbed press. This was for
repair work on complex inlays. Normally I use hot hide glue and a
veneer hammer by hand, but for this stuff I wanted a one-off and a
It's also possible to make your own hot-melt thin-film adhesives. If
you look for advice on framing and mounting, then you should find
plenty of information.
I've used veneer that is a type of peel and stick, with great success.
I've used it directly over mdf, without any other adhesive, and for
extra strength bonding, over a coat of water-based gel contact cement
evenly spread on the substrate. Nowadays I would always use the contact
cement on the substrate to assure a permanent bond.
Not sure it you're asking about sheet veneer or edge veneer strips, but the
pre-glued strips work out fine. You use an iron to heat up the glue, takes a
few minutes to cool and then you can work it. Never had any problem and the
past projects I've made where I used it have never had any peeling.
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