pre-glue veneer

Bonding strength for veneer is always far more than you need to hold a sheet down, and never enough to hold an unsupported edge or corner from splitting. If you're worried about this stuff, think of solid timber lippings etc.

I've found pre-glued veneer to be very expensive - far more than unglued veneer, mainly because it's more of a "retail" product. It may also have poor glue behaviour if it has been poorly stored in the past (damp is the problem).

I have used similar veneer in the past, using a hot-mount tissue and a photographer's heated glazing / mounting flatbed press. This was for repair work on complex inlays. Normally I use hot hide glue and a veneer hammer by hand, but for this stuff I wanted a one-off and a single pressing.

It's also possible to make your own hot-melt thin-film adhesives. If you look for advice on framing and mounting, then you should find plenty of information.

I've used veneer that is a type of peel and stick, with great success. I've used it directly over mdf, without any other adhesive, and for extra strength bonding, over a coat of water-based gel contact cement evenly spread on the substrate. Nowadays I would always use the contact cement on the substrate to assure a permanent bond.

Kim

Not sure it you're asking about sheet veneer or edge veneer strips, but the pre-glued strips work out fine. You use an iron to heat up the glue, takes a few minutes to cool and then you can work it. Never had any problem and the past projects I've made where I used it have never had any peeling.