Oak or ash band saw curves more easily?

Your blade is fine. Make certain that the blade is tracking properly on the wheel crown, and that you have your blade lead set properly. If the blade won't track in its own kerf, your pivot point is either too far forward of the teeth, or too far behind, depending on which direction it wants to (mis-)track.

FWIW

Reply to
DG
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What is a blade lead? The guide blocks? I haven't heard that term.

Reply to
Tim

Just in case there is some misunderstanding, it is blade lead - as in to guide or direct in a course; not lead - as in a dense malleable metal.

Blade lead refers to the direction that a particular blade wants to track, depending on the saw's setup and the set of the teeth. Every blade can differ.

For instance, when re-sawing, if the stock is not fed into the blade at the angle that the blade wants it to be, it will not cut a straight line, no matter how you force it. You only end up with score marks and frustration. Feeding at what _appears_ to be parallel with the blade is not enough. You have to check the lead of the blade and compensate for its tendency to cut towards one direction or another.

When cutting curves, the same principles apply, only the pivot point of the stock is altered to match the feed preference of the blade.

This really crude, exaggerated graphic might help:

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Reply to
DG

If you're not being facetious, blade lead and guide blocks are pretty basic bandsaw concepts. Before you do anything else with your bandsaw, I'd strongly recommend that get a bandsaw book or 2 - I like "The Bandsaw Handbook" by Duginske, though there are several other bandsaw books out by Duginske and others. Check your local library or

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(that's
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if the link is too long) Very informative, good background on bandsaws, how to set them up, tune them to reduce vibration, what can be done with various types and thickness of blades, etc. Good luck, Andy

Reply to
Andy

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